KE4AVB wrote:It might be worth mentioning that a straight sided flat blade should used to provide full contact with nozzle slotted area. Most flat blade screwdrivers are tapered and need modifying for this purpose. Also some of the aftermarket carburetor kits has wrongly threaded main mixture nut/bolt. I ran into in the Spring where the carburetor was leaking around this needle assembly and it strips very easily; the Briggs version worked fine as was better threaded.
Yeah I had a heckuva time attempting at first just using a regular screwdriver to try to unscrew the nozzle. Of course, the screwdriver was too wide to fit down (or, er, up) deep enough into the hole. So I grinded the wide part of the sides of the screwdriver down until it would fit down (or... up) in there. Then of course I found the blade too thin, not providing full contact with the nozzle slotted area. Tried turning it anyway, but no go. Started to strip the brass slot a little. Scared me into deciding I'd better grind down the end of my screwdriver until the blade thickness would provide fuller contact with the nozzle slotted area. That worked a lot better, especially (I think) including a sharp tap or two on the butt end of the screwdriver with a hammer to help loosen it because it was pretty durn tight stuck in there it seemed. Anyway, sure felt lucky (whew) to be able to get it unscrewed after all that.
Thanks for the heads up on the aftermarket kits, I'll try to avoid those and get the Briggs version when/if I get a kit.