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old briggs engine, carb inquiry

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Re: old briggs engine, carb inquiry

Postby Deere2me » Thu Nov 06, 2014 2:49 pm

sgull wrote:
Deere2me wrote:You wanna replace the needle, even if it looks good. The brass seat is replaceable if it leaks.


My rubber tipped needle does look good, actually. But best to go ahead anyway and replace my rubber tipped needle with the metal-tipped version with the new rubber seat seat that most typically comes with a rebuild kit?

If it turns out I discover my brass seat leaks (hope not) I'm not sure how to go about replacing it, but we'll cross that bridge when/if I come to it. Thanks


NO! Replace it with a new RUBBER TIPPED NEEDLE!
http://ppeten.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=836

I quote:
"Don't pay any attention to old Dummy."- okie
"pompous a**hole"- steinuit13
"I agree, Deere is a negative around here to say the least"-mek a nik
Nice, huh?
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Re: old briggs engine, carb inquiry

Postby bgsengine » Thu Nov 06, 2014 2:51 pm

sgull wrote:
Deere2me wrote:You wanna replace the needle, even if it looks good. The brass seat is replaceable if it leaks.


My rubber tipped needle does look good, actually. But best to go ahead anyway and replace my rubber tipped needle with the metal-tipped version with the new rubber seat seat that most typically comes with a rebuild kit?

No. Those carbs came equipped with different versions of float needle/seat - they do not interchange - the rubber tip needle fits one size seat and wont fit the other seat - the viton seat (not rubber) with aluminum needle fits the seat designed for then and will NOT fit the seat for the rubber tipped needle

I am not sure at all if you can even change out the seats and use a different one than what was equipped.

If it turns out I discover my brass seat leaks (hope not) I'm not sure how to go about replacing it, but we'll cross that bridge when/if I come to it. Thanks
If viton tipped needle/seat leaks, the seat can sometimes be burnished/polished with a Q-Tip and some valve lapping compound (extra fine 220 grit or better) if necessary - if you don't want or don't have a replacement seat for that needle.
How poor are they who have not patience. What wound did ever heal, but by degrees? - Iago (Othello Act II, Scene 3)
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Re: old briggs engine, carb inquiry

Postby sgull » Thu Nov 06, 2014 2:55 pm

Deere2me wrote:NO![/color] Replace it with a new RUBBER TIPPED NEEDLE!


Right. Dumb question on my part. Didn't realize (because I was too lazy to notice) the rubber tipped version is included right in the kit anyways. :oops:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Briggs-Stratton ... 1248329101
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Re: old briggs engine, carb inquiry

Postby Deere2me » Thu Nov 06, 2014 5:14 pm

sgull wrote:
Deere2me wrote:NO![/color] Replace it with a new RUBBER TIPPED NEEDLE!


Right. Dumb question on my part. Didn't realize (because I was too lazy to notice) the rubber tipped version is included right in the kit anyways. :oops:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Briggs-Stratton ... 1248329101


Dunno if ya bought that particular kit yet, but, since it's not an OEM B&S kit, you'll find identical cheaper ones on fleabay. Just search for 295938.
I prefer the OEM kits, but the bootleg ones usually work OK, plus ya get a new emulsion tube.
http://ppeten.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=836

I quote:
"Don't pay any attention to old Dummy."- okie
"pompous a**hole"- steinuit13
"I agree, Deere is a negative around here to say the least"-mek a nik
Nice, huh?
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Re: old briggs engine, carb inquiry

Postby sgull » Thu Nov 06, 2014 5:30 pm

Deere2me wrote:Dunno if ya bought that particular kit yet, but, since it's not an OEM B&S kit, you'll find identical cheaper ones on fleabay. Just search for 295938.
I prefer the OEM kits, but the bootleg ones usually work OK, plus ya get a new emulsion tube.


Nope didn't buy a kit yet. Hey thanks a bunch for that helpful info ^. Been contemplating/searching for the cheapest route to go, because I'm cheap! And that helps me a lot.
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Re: old briggs engine, carb inquiry

Postby sgull » Fri Nov 07, 2014 12:33 pm

I'd like to re-visit my inquiry (in a previous post this thread) in regard to the brass tube ("bowl vent tube" apparently) sticking out there by the choke plate, as shown in the photo below of not my carb but that other one like mine described/pictured at that other site. My carb does not have that brass tube so I'm still unclear whether it absolutely should, or the reason it's "not there" just has to do with the specific application of my carb, or what:

Image
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Re: old briggs engine, carb inquiry

Postby bgsengine » Fri Nov 07, 2014 12:57 pm

sgull wrote:I'd like to re-visit my inquiry (in a previous post this thread) in regard to the brass tube ("bowl vent tube" apparently) sticking out there by the choke plate, as shown in the photo below of not my carb but that other one like mine described/pictured at that other site. My carb does not have that brass tube so I'm still unclear whether it absolutely should, or the reason it's "not there" just has to do with the specific application of my carb, or what:

Depends on when it was built - as they are quite literally pressed and/or molded in to the body, next to impossible to remove without destroying the carb so 99.99% likely yours was never equipped with it - older versions did not have that brass tube it's just a design change but the purpose is the same. the brass tube added aids in venting and prevents a venturi effect from the choke being partly closed from pulling gas and fumes out that vent as if it was the main jet.
How poor are they who have not patience. What wound did ever heal, but by degrees? - Iago (Othello Act II, Scene 3)
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Re: old briggs engine, carb inquiry

Postby sgull » Fri Nov 07, 2014 1:13 pm

bgsengine wrote:Depends on when it was built so 99.99% likely yours was never equipped with it - older versions did not have that brass tube it's just a design change but the purpose is the same. the brass tube added aids in venting and prevents a venturi effect from the choke being partly closed from pulling gas and fumes out that vent as if it was the main jet.


Okay bgsengine, good. Mine is definitely an older version (apparently from the late 50's or early 60's), so I should have no worries about it then. Thanks for your helpful explanatory reply.
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Re: old briggs engine, carb inquiry

Postby sgull » Sat Nov 08, 2014 11:36 am

Deere2me wrote:Dunno if ya bought that particular kit yet, but, since it's not an OEM B&S kit, you'll find identical cheaper ones on fleabay. Just search for 295938. I prefer the OEM kits, but the bootleg ones usually work OK, plus ya get a new emulsion tube.


Came across this kit numbered 295938A and am assuming it would be the same thing as the 295938 OEM kit as mentioned in quote above: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Briggs-and-Stra ... 3a9acd27f4 I like the low asking price, but, as also mentioned in quote above, likely no emulsion tube included? I submitted an inquiry to the seller to ask if they could possibly show me what's in that box but they didn't reply. :cry:
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Re: old briggs engine, carb inquiry

Postby sgull » Sat Nov 08, 2014 1:23 pm

In regard to a couple areas on the carb where I might find it necessary to do some slight corrosion removal, I am wondering whether the particular compound I have would be appropriate for either area. I understand that Briggs has a product available, a fine valve lapping compound (part #94150) but that is not readily available in my location. Instead I happen to have a Permatex product, a valve grinding compound 34A, which is described as “not having a grit rating but uses silicon carbide for abrasive action. It starts out coarse and with continued use from an application the silicon carbide breaks down and begins to produce a smoother surface”.

Referring back, these two areas are at (1) the lower nozzle seat, and (2) the float needle seat, mentioned (and quoted below) in previous responses this thread:

(1)
sometimes older carburetors developed leak problems at the lower nozzle seat due to corrosion. The 1996 briggs update detailed a repair. using a spare nozzle, the threaded area was ground off. Valve grinding compound was applied to the seat area and the nozzle inserted into the lower carburetor body. Using a screwdriver, the nozzle was turned in an attempt to polish the corroded area.


(2)
If viton tipped needle/seat leaks, the seat can sometimes be burnished/polished with a Q-Tip and some valve lapping compound (extra fine 220 grit or better) if necessary - if you don't want or don't have a replacement seat for that needle.


Any comments appreciated.
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