old briggs engine, carb inquiry

[sgull]

Yes, you have the gasket in there and the screws fully tightened before attempting to slide the feeler gauge in there. What I'm calling the bowel cover is what they're calling the upper body. The lower body can be filed flat, but the upper body can't because the float hinge bosses are in the way. If the upper body is warped, you pretty much have to replace it.

I see. Thanks again for the helpful info, and for the clarification.

[sgull]

I'm unclear about the Briggs engine model number 23AFB. From what I see in the published info at the Repairmans Handboook link listed here: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1014 I can see in the Model Data (table No.1, bottom of page 3, in the Basic Model column) the basic model 23 listed, but the in the Corresponding Special Models column which follows there is not a 23AFB included. Closest match is the 23FB. So I'm wondering why there would be no 23AFB, and what the letter A would indicate as being any different or compared with the 23FB.

[bgsengine]

because it is a base model 23A (out of models 23,23A,23C,or 23D)

[sgull]

because it is a base model 23A (out of models 23,23A,23C,or 23D)

I still don't get it. In the table I don't see any 23A listed anywhere, as a base model or otherwise. I just see 23 listed as a basic model, and then 23B, 23FB, 23FBP, 23FBPC, 23P, 23PC, 23R6, and 23R6D as the corresponding special models in the 23 model row of that table. There's no 23A (or 23C or 23D), mentioned quoted above, in models shown in the table. So 23 is considered a basic model, and apparently 23A is considered a base model too? I'm just confused and can't quite understand why 23A isn't listed in the table. Just asking... to hopefully learn and try to get this straight. Thanks

[bgsengine]

They are not all listed in that example table. That is just a guide - it is not all inclusive. 23A is a 23 series, revision A 23FB would be an older version of 23AFB which is an older version of 23CFB (if it exists) and so on.

Much like Kohler - you might see aK301, K301S, or a K301AQS - but for parts lookups and service information purposes, you only worry about the K301 (For Kohler, the S indicates electric starter originally equipped the Q indicates the "quiet muffler' version, and stuff like that)

the 23A may have slightly different parts to it than the 23 but it falls under the 23 series in any event so the block and core is pretty much the same.

If you want the exact identification of the model, you would have to find the variations in parts lookups, although some "antique engine" experts have been known to post or publish their collected information (such as identifying the year and month of manufacture from the serial number)

[sgull]

Thanks bgsengine for the explanation in your last reply. Glad I asked now. Your helpful elaboration clarifies the issue for me and I do appreciate it.
Perhaps similar along those lines might be the explanation for the letter "A" included in the 295938A carb kit (which I've already purchased) as shown in the picture on this ebay listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251716806830

[bgsengine]

Thanks bgsengine for the explanation in your last reply. Glad I asked now. Your helpful elaboration clarifies the issue for me and I do appreciate it.
Perhaps similar along those lines might be the explanation for the letter "A" included in the 295938A carb kit (which I've already purchased) as shown in the picture on this ebay listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251716806830

Yep - its a way of doing a minor revision or update , even something as simple as a packaging or supplier change - Tecumseh Still uses that (A-B-C revisions), but Briggs (and Kohler) now use a -S Designation (298090 -> 298090-S ) - MTD Products also uses that sort of "minor revision" system (A-B-C-D, etc.) Other manufacturers often do, as well, but some just give it a whole new part number.

[sgull]

Thanks for that info Merkava_4. So I assume I'd check with the feeler gauge between the two halves with it fully assembled, meaning fully assembled with the gasket in between?

Yes, you have the gasket in there and the screws fully tightened before attempting to slide the feeler gauge in there. What I'm calling the bowel cover is what they're calling the upper body. The lower body can be filed flat, but the upper body can't because the float hinge bosses are in the way. If the upper body is warped, you pretty much have to replace it.

I discovered I can slide a .002 feeler gauge in between at a few of the points around the perimeter, but not specifically at the point described here (fuel bowl vent boss). At that particular location (fuel bowl vent boss) as described/shown in the instructions per below, I cannot insert the .002 feeler gauge. Comment please?

[sgull]

Don't mean to be pesky here, but might anyone have a comment/reply to my last post/inquiry this thread?

[bgsengine]

Don't mean to be pesky here, but might anyone have a comment/reply to my last post/inquiry this thread?

Reason for checking at the fuel bowl vent boss - further in near the venturi you may spy another small hole - That is your idle fuel passage that feeds fuel up to the idle mixture needle... if that leaks air, you got problems -

Other than that the rest of the bowl *may* leak or weep out fuel if warped, but it isn't gonna affect operation too much. Often warpage comes from over-tightening the screws that hold the 2 pieces together and with a little finesse, they CAN be hammered back to nearly flat and then a light filing to smooth everything out - but I would not try it unless you're *really* confident at your skill with a hammer on aluminum body, and your skill at getting a flat surface with a single cut file - very easy to break it entirely, or file things too far and make your problems worse. (Can you tell I have done that a few times, saved replacing the upper body..)