old briggs engine, carb inquiry

[sgull]

It might be worth mentioning that a straight sided flat blade should used to provide full contact with nozzle slotted area. Most flat blade screwdrivers are tapered and need modifying for this purpose. Also some of the aftermarket carburetor kits has wrongly threaded main mixture nut/bolt. I ran into in the Spring where the carburetor was leaking around this needle assembly and it strips very easily; the Briggs version worked fine as was better threaded.

Yeah I had a heckuva time attempting at first just using a regular screwdriver to try to unscrew the nozzle. Of course, the screwdriver was too wide to fit down (or, er, up) deep enough into the hole. So I grinded the wide part of the sides of the screwdriver down until it would fit down (or... up) in there. Then of course I found the blade too thin, not providing full contact with the nozzle slotted area. Tried turning it anyway, but no go. Started to strip the brass slot a little. Scared me into deciding I'd better grind down the end of my screwdriver until the blade thickness would provide fuller contact with the nozzle slotted area. That worked a lot better, especially (I think) including a sharp tap or two on the butt end of the screwdriver with a hammer to help loosen it because it was pretty durn tight stuck in there it seemed. Anyway, sure felt lucky (whew) to be able to get it unscrewed after all that.

Thanks for the heads up on the aftermarket kits, I'll try to avoid those and get the Briggs version when/if I get a kit.

[sgull]

I believe I have some extra but probably used carb parts if you need something that is NLA.

Sent ya a PM, in regard to that.

[KE4AVB]

Yeah I had a heckuva time attempting at first just using a regular screwdriver to try to unscrew the nozzle. Of course, the screwdriver was too wide to fit down (or, er, up) deep enough into the hole. So I grinded the wide part of the sides of the screwdriver down until it would fit down (or... up) in there. Then of course I found the blade too thin, not providing full contact with the nozzle slotted area. Tried turning it anyway, but no go. Started to strip the brass slot a little. Scared me into deciding I'd better grind down the end of my screwdriver until the blade thickness would provide fuller contact with the nozzle slotted area. That worked a lot better, especially (I think) including a sharp tap or two on the butt end of the screwdriver with a hammer to help loosen it because it was pretty durn tight stuck in there it seemed. Anyway, sure felt lucky (whew) to be able to get it unscrewed after all that.

You have already found that using correct screwdriver and sharp metal to metal contact will help loosen those struck screws; just don't over to it. On some nozzles it take a little soaking in cleaner to help break the varnish grip. If you work on many carburetors this will loosen a lot of the screws before you strip the heads also works on larger bolts and screws.

As for the nozzles and jets I used modified 1/4 hex shaped driver bits that are for those electric drills. The flats are hollowed ground giving you much better contact without the climb out that normal screwdriver flats have. I had remove some the high stops on the hexes for the large bit and rounded the smaller one along with thinning the tip. They fit nicely in my carburetor tools box along with the special size taps that I need. One good thing these hex shape bits is that if you have hand problems like I do sometimes you can use a 1/4 socket with a ratchet or a small pull bar. Personally I have problems sometimes gripping those screwdriver handles. Now of course I could have brought the ones that Briggs have but I don't see a need to when I can make my own.

[sgull]

On some nozzles it take a little soaking in cleaner to help break the varnish grip.
As for the nozzles and jets I used modified 1/4 hex shaped driver bits that are for those electric drills. The flats are hollowed ground giving you much better contact without the climb out that normal screwdriver flats have. I had remove some the high stops on the hexes for the large bit and rounded the smaller one along with thinning the tip.

Yes, soaking in cleaner likely helped out for me as well in my case with the nozzle removal. At first I tried the cleaner only into the external carb body hole where the nozzle is recessed into (let sit/soak overnight I think), but that didn't seem to help. Then, rather reluctantly, but per some advice I received otherwise that it would be okay to do so, I soaked (submerged) the entire carb in the cleaner (all day I think it was), and after that I was finally able to loosen/remove the nozzle. I didn't particularly like the idea of having to soak/submerge the entire carb in cleaner like that though; isn't that usually a big no-no because of likelihood/possibility of the cleaner damaging otherwise still good/re-usable rubber or other such soft material seals/gaskets?

I think I understand your description of the modification you make (or made) to the electric drill driver bits for the special purpose as per the discussion, and thanks for the helpful tip about that. Only thing I don't quite get is the statement "the flats are hollowed ground". Perhaps "hollowed" is a machinist type term I'm not familiar with; would you mind clarifying that hollowed ground for me.

[bgsengine]

Only thing I don't quite get is the statement "the flats are hollowed ground". Perhaps "hollowed" is a machinist type term I'm not familiar with; would you mind clarifying that hollowed ground for me.

Left side bit is hollow ground.

[sgull]

I see. Picture worth a thousand words. thanks bgsengine.

[Deere2me]

I see. Picture worth a thousand words. thanks bgsengine.

I use the straight blade turned shank ones from here:http://www.wihatools.com/700seri/740serie.htm
Absolutely the best! In fact, I get all my bits from them, torx, phillips, etc. they have a great selection of lengths, and great cust. service.
For carb work, I couple the bit with a snap-on 1/4" magnetic bit holder socket and a 1/4" drive sliding T handle, cant be beat!
I'm thinkin' you can also get some decent bits at Lowe's or any good hardware store.

[sgull]

I use the straight blade turned shank ones from here:http://www.wihatools.com/700seri/740serie.htm Absolutely the best! In fact, I get all my bits from them, torx, phillips, etc. they have a great selection of lengths, and great cust. service. For carb work, I couple the bit with a snap-on 1/4" magnetic bit holder socket and a 1/4" drive sliding T handle, cant be beat! I'm thinkin' you can also get some decent bits at Lowe's or any good hardware store.

Thanks. ^ I actually have probably a half a handful of those type bits already. The thought just never occurred to me to try to use them for this. Plus I got the snap-on magnetic bit already too. Just didn't think hard nuff beforehand on this; I should've asked about it here earlier obviously. Good tip about the sliding T handle, I'll keep that in mind too, for next time(s). thanks

[Deere2me]

Yeah, the T handle gives ya all the turnin' power ya need.

[sgull]

sometimes older carburetors developed leak problems at the lower nozzle seat due to corrosion. The 1996 briggs update detailed a repair. using a spare nozzle, the threaded area was ground off. Valve grinding compound was applied to the seat area and the nozzle inserted into the lower carburetor body. Using a screwdriver, the nozzle was turned in an attempt to polish the corroded area. After cleaning up, a new nozzle was installed with a Teflon washer borrowed from a 391413 repair kit.

Bluemower, I'm rather unclear on the use/placement of the Teflon washer you mention. Where/how specifically would this be installed in respect to the lower nozzle seat? I did come across the washers available along with the 39143 repair kit (one source here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Briggs-Stra ... 3397d5be6f but as mentioned I can't quite picture the installation/application. Thanks