Turned out the easiest (and best?) tachometer was as close as my iPhone! The "Engine RPM" app was $8.99, but it really works. Uses phone microphone, Fourier & autocorrelation analysis, and gives a clear & relatively steady display. Unbelievably simple to use, and cheaper than the tachometer I couldn't even find on the Autozone, DAS, or Napa web sites!! ("Strobe Light" app is free, but I couldn't get it to show me a stationary flywheel, even though I knew the approximate RPM. Plus, hard to look at the flywheel while holding the phone and making adjustments!)
I got the high RPM to 3900 +/- 100; low set to ~1500-1550. Could not get it lower (i.e., to 1400), as the throttle plate just would not close any more. I could close it by hand on the carb., and could then adjust the carb. idle set screw to get ~1400. But, by itself, the governor and/or cable/throttle control stop are keeping it from closing completely. Also noticed that the return of the control to idle is slow --- the thing has 3 springs, and it just seems a bit "lazy". Will put some lubricant on it tomorrow and try one last time.
The other thing I notice is that the "detent" stop on the throttle control, at the high end, before it is supposed to close the choke, is just wrong. If I push the throttle control to there, I get about 3500 RPM; I need to push past there, and if I listen (after having adjusted as above) for the highest speed, just before it begins to choke, that's where I get ~3900 RPM. Maybe this combined throttle/choke control is a little to fancy for its own good?
In sum, 1500 - 3900 RPM is pretty good, and I don't want to make the "perfect" be the enemy of the "good"!
Thanks for all your help, guys!
David