bgsengine wrote:
Reason for checking at the fuel bowl vent boss - further in near the venturi you may spy another small hole - That is your idle fuel passage that feeds fuel up to the idle mixture needle... if that leaks air, you got problems -
Deere2me wrote: sgull, don't you have a MANUAL that would explain most of the carb workings?
Deere2me wrote:bgsengine wrote:
Reason for checking at the fuel bowl vent boss - further in near the venturi you may spy another small hole - That is your idle fuel passage that feeds fuel up to the idle mixture needle... if that leaks air, you got problems -
That ain't right! The idle mixture screw/port is fed from the emulsion tube.
and he evidently hasDeere2me wrote:edit/add:
You need to sit down and study what materials have been made avail. to you, no?
And, what's wrong with that? just because YOU know everything does not mean that someone inexperienced in the field should not be asking questions as to the how and why of things. Note one of the key words in the forum name: *EDUCATION*
Eight pages on such a simple subject. I'll bet that's more than any other post has garnered in over six months...sheesh!
bgsengine wrote:Deere2me wrote:bgsengine wrote:
Reason for checking at the fuel bowl vent boss - further in near the venturi you may spy another small hole - That is your idle fuel passage that feeds fuel up to the idle mixture needle... if that leaks air, you got problems -
That ain't right! The idle mixture screw/port is fed from the emulsion tube.
Correct - I was actually thinking of the ones with removable venturi and that port is the air bleed to the emulsion tube. they have a separate gasket for the venturi. the large 2-piecce does not have such a air bleed in that area.
The .002 warp limit is more to do with the sealing surfaces of the carb venturi/throat. Unmetered fuel leaking into intake and all that.. In any case, it SHOULD be flat and surfaces should mate cleanly all around for best results.and he evidently hasDeere2me wrote:edit/add:
You need to sit down and study what materials have been made avail. to you, no?And, what's wrong with that? just because YOU know everything does not mean that someone inexperienced in the field should not be asking questions as to the how and why of things. Note one of the key words in the forum name: *EDUCATION*
Eight pages on such a simple subject. I'll bet that's more than any other post has garnered in over six months...sheesh!
sgull wrote:I'm considering plugging off the filter drain at the bottom of the carb (plugging it with a welch plug or perhaps sealing it with a bolt and nut has been suggested) if I can't obtain a replacement filter for it and the little tang part that holds that filter in as well (the little tang is missing because I lost it, and the old filter was deteriorated). My understanding so far is that the purpose of the drain there is to drain any moisture or excess fuel that can collect in the air intake and get sucked in on the next start ups, and that the little filter installed there prevents sucking in dirty air from past the main filter. My concern about plugging off that drain would of course be the defeating of the purpose of having the drain there in the first place. So in that case wouldn't plugging that drain be an ill-advised approach if I cannot obtain the proper little filter replacement and tang/holder part, or if I did plug the drain as described what would/should I need to do otherwise about that moisture or excess fuel which potentially will collect there?
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