Wheel hub removal

[bgsengine]

Well , one of the benefits to welding the nut on the hub - you have a lot less work to do to clean up and make it look still usable afterwards - pulling on the rim to either side of the hub, you have the chance of bending the rim off "square" with the hub - Other thing about welding a nut to end of hub above axle is you are applying the heat where it can do some good

I have had some really stubborn wheel hubs to pull off that ended up completely tearing the wheel rim away from the hub using a puller and 2 bolts -had to replace rims anyway so we ended up just cutting the rest of the hub off - then last year had a troy-bilt pony tiller with one piece rim/hub with the same problem, but, took a 3/4" bolt and nut, thread the nut on and use bolt to hold it lined up,(so bolt would push on the axle shaft and not the wheel hub) weld nut to the hub, run the bolt in to axle shaft and using air impact, along with the heat, prior applications of penetrating oil and the vibration from air impact hammering, once the wheel started to come along, it very nearly popped right off - then I just cut the welds away, grind smooth and painted white, could hardly tell we'd done any work on it. took a lot less work than welding a couple bolts to the rim, or drilling it for bolt/nut plus puller..

[Mek-a-nik]

Lots of heat....or the hot wax trick.

Yeah, heat, as in ace/oxy torch. If you don't have a "full grown" set up, this has worked for me: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic- ... /203391033 (recommended by 38racing) When it's glowing red, it's ready to submit.

[KE4AVB]

I'm glad the post is resulting in discussion. I haven't had time to work on the one that still has the hubs on the axle as I'm using that machine to guide me on taking out the transmission on the one that has the hubs removed. The object is to install new bushings on the wheel axle. What a job! The pro shop in the area told me it takes them three hours. I think it's going to take me three days, if I ever get it back. Im glad my three daughters are graduated from college.

I did however get a chance to discuss BS'snut idea with my welder. He thought it might be easier to weld a bolt 180 degrees apart on the hub and use these bouts with a flat bar piece the make a jacking tool with a third bolt on the center of the axle. He's the welder an will do it somehow.

I thought vinegar(acetic acid) was good for rust removal. I tried it but was not pleased. vineger might just be to weak. I like keroseane. then I can just get rid of it in the wood stove.

Your welder's idea is basically what I said only instead of welding the bolts to the rim I drill a hole in the rim and feed the bolts through the holes and put washers and nuts on them on the inside. The flat bar piece he refers to is my actual puller cross bar for the bearing puller. Regular vinegar is 5%. You can get cleaning vinegar which is 10%. I have used swimming pool muriatic with 50% water to use as a de-rusting bath for metal parts.

With any of the methods discuss it is patience that is the key. It is a slow process. It might even take a combination of the different methods; just depends how badly rusted the rim is to the axle.

As for pulling method Brian way is the best as you are pulling at source of the problem and as he wrote the other methods of pulling can end up destroying the rim. I have only tried the bar with two bolt once and it only pulled through even with me applying heat with ace/ox torch. When welding the nut on just make sure you weld to the axle itself or you will defeat the whole purpose of welding on the nut.

The vinegar and muriatic acid trick can be a very slow go if you wanting it to penetrate. They do fairly good at cleaning surface rust as I have use vinegar trick to clean carburetor parts overnight and the muriatic acid to clean axles and crankshafts of rust. I have use the pool muriatic acid at full strength as it comes in the bottle; just got to neutralize it afterwards and oil the metal to keep it from re-rusting. An another thing is muriatic acid can produce some toxic fumes so outdoor use is a must; also rubber gloves are a must.

Bobodu mentioned trying the wax trick. That one I haven't tried yet.

[Arkie]

I've wrestled with Bolens/MTD rusted on axle rear lawn tractor rims. Axle is part flat to fit thru hub, the rim has very little wiggle room when trying to free up and the outer center of wheel hub is recessed and not easy to get at with welder.

Usually have to apply lots of heat to the hub (don't apply heavy heat to the axle) with torch while the axle is held stationery so as to not rotate or a tire wheel on the opposite axle side as a counter balance when wiggling the rusted one back and forth.
After removal I clean the inside of the hub and the axle real good and apply anti-sieze before re-installing the wheel.
Not a fun job. I've had to sacrifice some rims by using a cutting torch, cutting off the center rim around the hub use a puller on the hub. I have access to replacement used lawn tractor rims at a mower salvage.

Safety note:
Let the air out of the tire and leave the valve stem out when using heat around any tire rim. The air inside the tire WILL expand rapidly and become a bomb as the rim heats.

[frankp]

Thanks for the safety note Arkie. I actually removed the tire before starting the job. I lost the hubs but the tires are still good.

[wristpin]

I've wrestled with Bolens/MTD rusted on axle rear lawn tractor rims. Axle is part flat to fit thru hub, the rim

Safety note:
Let the air out of the tire and leave the valve stem out when using heat around any tire rim. The air inside the tire WILL expand rapidly and become a bomb as the rim heats.

Excellent advice, some frightening clips on YouTube !
In fact I would go further than that, always take the tyre off completely before going anywhere near it with heat.
General advice when inflating a tyre , especially when over inflating to pop the beads onto the rim is to stand "end on" to it and not in front of it . Big wheel/tyre combinations should be in a cage for initial inflation.

[bobodu]

Or just let the Patriots handle inflation....

[38racing]

Well , one of the benefits to welding the nut on the hub - you have a lot less work to do to clean up and make it look still usable afterwards - pulling on the rim to either side of the hub, you have the chance of bending the rim off "square" with the hub - Other thing about welding a nut to end of hub above axle is you are applying the heat where it can do some good

I have had some really stubborn wheel hubs to pull off that ended up completely tearing the wheel rim away from the hub using a puller and 2 bolts -had to replace rims anyway so we ended up just cutting the rest of the hub off - then last year had a troy-bilt pony tiller with one piece rim/hub with the same problem, but, took a 3/4" bolt and nut, thread the nut on and use bolt to hold it lined up,(so bolt would push on the axle shaft and not the wheel hub) weld nut to the hub, run the bolt in to axle shaft and using air impact, along with the heat, prior applications of penetrating oil and the vibration from air impact hammering, once the wheel started to come along, it very nearly popped right off - then I just cut the welds away, grind smooth and painted white, could hardly tell we'd done any work on it. took a lot less work than welding a couple bolts to the rim, or drilling it for bolt/nut plus puller..

As you said it is best to pull at the source which is why I try to get the bearing puller behind so it can pull on the hub shaft rather than the bolts pulling on the rim. As for welding I wonder if I can get it right. I've tried the 'weld a nut on a broken bolt ' trick several times but my welds are never strong enough and I just break the nut off.

[bobodu]

If you are welding with stick....try a 7014 rod.