HondaG100 wrote:bgsengine wrote:It is an L-Head, aluminum block, I am going to make a bet that you will find a loose valve seat.
Right on BGS and Deere! Beer is on me.Number 1 exhaust valve seat pulled out by hand. The exhaust valves both looked like they run hot. Almost white. It does not run hot or lean so maybe I have an issue with loose exhaust seats not transferring heat correctly? Oversize seats the solution here?
if you can GET them - replacing seats (and getting them square) is something a machine shop would be doing, unless you have the tool kit to counterbore, ream and install the new seats, get them squared up, then recut the seats 90 degrees to the guides - prolly looking at $600+ worth of special service tools to do the job.
However - I *HAVE* , for an "in a pinch" , "Absolutely no guarantee whatsoever as to quality or how long it lasts" repair job, install the seat, install valve normally, then use a center punch , peen in the block all the way around the seat, as closely spaced as possible, multiple passes, until seat will not turn at all by hand, then remove valve, set clearance, lap it in..
The one I did - and keep in mind it was only ever the ONE time I did any such thing for anyone (even me) is still running 15 years later, with nothing more than standard maintenance.
the general idea being, the installed (with spring) valve holds seat square (of course after cleaning the area where seat sits) - Of course, if the seat is already damaged or cracked, all bets are off then.
but if you want a properly done job, I'd suggest having seats done at a machine shop - probably cheaper than buying your own tool set.
*edit* - Or, what Walt said - There IS a procedure to peen seats back in in service manuals.. I forgot all about that til he mentioned it.
