Toro LT electrical problem:

[Buckshot 1]

Glad to hear you're okay Don. Asked the guys at C&C if they had seen ya, but that was over a month ago.

Good to hear from you. Bob how are you and Tami doing, fine I hope. I had a little health issue, but the Doc got me up and going again. Been out to C&C a few times during the last month.

[Buckshot 1]

I apologize for the muti quotes, but i could not fiqure out how to lump them all together.

[Deere2me]

The ignition switch housing doesn't need grounding.

Have you tried jumping across both of the large terminals on the solenoid? Also is the solenoid a 3 terminal or 4 terminal? If 4 terminal one of the small terminal is grounded thru a safety switch and other has 12v when the ignition is in start position.

If you have a link to the electrical diagram that you post that will make troubleshooting easier.

Nothing happens when jumping large terminals. 4 post soleniodand one small terminal is grounded. According to the wiring diagram everything goes thru the safety relay. I am not computer savy enough to post the wiring diagram.

You don't need to post the wire diagram. If you jump the two heavy terminals on the solenoid, then yer takin the whole wiring /safeties etc. outta the equation, no?
Either a bad ground, bad cable/s or a bad starter, WTF else could it be?? FYI Just cause a solenoid clicks, don't mean it's good and able to pass the heavy current draw. Just 'cause yer test light works, don't mean the ground, or lugs on either cable are good and able to pass the current. Did you do a "voltage drop test"?

[KE4AVB]

I forgot to mention that in my post. Jumping starter from the battery, does crank the engine. Connecting my test light to the positive side of battery and checking engine/frame ground also solenoid ground is good.

Petty well eliminated the possible bad ground.

Nothing happens when jumping large terminals. 4 post solenoid and one small terminal is grounded. According to the wiring diagram everything goes thru the safety relay.

Sounds like a bad cable or connection either from the battery to the solenoid or from the solenoid to the starter. I have seen where the connection in the cable to terminal be corroded just enough to allow a test voltage through but fail when full current demand is applied. I talking about inside the cable terminal itself here. I suggest trying different cables to eliminate this as a possible source of the problem.

Also can be a corrode battery terminal. I have this problem with my JD650 every so often which require to re-clean the negative connection due high resistance. It been doing it for the last 20 yrs. Replaced cable terminals several times goes about 1-2 yrs then goes back doing it; just got used to it being a pain.

[Pete in Milton]

Seeing 12V potential on a specific terminal does not mean you're getting enough juice to turn it over! A test light is OK for some tests but what "voltage " is the test light showing you????? personally I cant tell a 13.5V brightness from an 11V brightness!!!LOL
Do a voltage drop test on both the ground side and the positive side of the complete circuit, typically in the automotive world I would expect each section to have a voltage drop of less than .2V, anything higher indicates that there is high resistance in that part of the circuit. Start by cleaning connections.
This test is done with the circuit complete and ON (under operating conditions) so you may need a helper to turn the switch to crank while you take your measurements, and use a DVOM. As get I older a regular analog volt meter becomes more difficult to read unless it has an expanded scale.
I had a solenoid once that gave valid readings for this test 9 out of 10 times, internally it had high resistance on the main contacts within.

[Buckshot 1]

I apologize for taking so long to respond to all the posts. Toro LT is up and running. The ignition switch had power going to it but no power going to the s side of the soleniod from the ignition switch. Even tried a new switch, same thing. After some creative re-wiring, the old girl starts and runs fine and all the safety switches work as they should. Thank you for all your replies on this matter.