Which type of oil ?

[StarTech]

And you didn't get the API code....just a generic graph from Amsoil...
And Briggs never recommends using a 15 weight at all. Let alone a 40 weight.

But Briggs does sells SAE 5w30 100% Synthetic oil that private labelled. Don't buy it for my customers as I can they same grade locally at a better price.

rotella 15w40 for at least 25 years. in all my equipment, atv's/motorcycles...etc.

Rotella T 15W40 API Specs>
API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CF, SM, SL, SJ, SH; ACEA E9, E7; JASO DH-2, MA; Caterpillar ECF-1A, ECF-2, ECF-3; Cummins CES 20081; DDC 93K218;
Deutz DQC III-05; MACK EO-O Premium Plus; Ford WSS-M2C171-E; MAN 3275; MB Approval 228.31; MTU Category 2; Renault Trucks RLD-3; Volvo VDS-4

The highlighted API codes are for automobile engines which the Briggs 4 cycle are in. The SH is an obsolete class but still useable. Any oil labeled that isn't rated above SE should not use any gasoline engine made after 1979.

The suffixes (0, 5, 10, 15 and 25) after the SAE followed by the letter W designate the engine oil's "winter" grade. The number after the W is the summer grade rating, no W no winter rating. As for the temperature bands for the viscosity you need take in the engine operating temperature too. Just because it is 90 outside doesn't mean the oil temperature is 90. By the time oil reaches the engine operating temperature it can be a thinner than water that why here in the South we run SAE30 in non-oil pump engines in the summer months.

I help maintained a fleet of 50 Macks and Ford Dump trucks and all we ever ran was straight SAE30 weight diesel rated engine oil. It was a bear to crank them on some of the cold mornings but they ran 9-10 hours a day without ever shutting down during the day.

[bobodu]

I'm still trying to figure out why anyone would run a too heavy oil designed for a big truck engine in a lawn mower when no manufacturer recommends it....Sure Amsoil says it'll work buy they don't build engines.
Lotta difference between a 5-30 and 15-40..

[KE4AVB]

I'm still trying to figure out why anyone would run a too heavy oil designed for a big truck engine in a lawn mower when no manufacturer recommends it....Sure Amsoil says it'll work buy they don't build engines.
Lotta difference between a 5-30 and 15-40..

The 15w40 is three thicker in the winter and only slightly thicker in the summer. If Matt is only using the engines during the summer it won't a problem, it is winter time when it going to be problem. I run 20W50 in Dodge D150 during the summer as it has 250k on it and I need replace the mains and rod bearings. Lost the oil pump several years ago and just haven't had the time to pull it offline. Boy I hated having to pull the oil pan on the side of the road; the idiots just won't move over or slow down.

[KE4AVB]

I'm still trying to figure out why anyone would run a too heavy oil designed for a big truck engine in a lawn mower when no manufacturer recommends it....Sure Amsoil says it'll work buy they don't build engines.
Lotta difference between a 5-30 and 15-40..

I thought I add some second thoughts here.

I would not be afraid to use oil classified to use in diesel engines; of course, I know how to read API codes on the label which a lot people don't read just like they don't read owner's manuals. Both oil viscosity and classification are both got to paid attention to. You just can't use just any old oil without know what your doing or you are just asking for problems.

Oils that are design for big trucks can be also design and rated to use in gasoline engines; hence, that why API codes are needed to be checked. It is weight of the oil that that can become a problem as it got to get into the bearings to do its job and to lubricate the cylinder(s) without causing excess resistance. Too thick won't get in, too thin won't lubricate; it must be able to prevent metal to metal contact in a wide temperature range. Today oils also got additives so it will be compatible with our ever changing fuels and engine designs.

[bgsengine]

I'm still trying to figure out why anyone would run a too heavy oil designed for a big truck engine in a lawn mower when no manufacturer recommends it....Sure Amsoil says it'll work buy they don't build engines.
Lotta difference between a 5-30 and 15-40..

I thought I add some second thoughts here.

I would not be afraid to use oil classified to use in diesel engines; of course, I know how to read API codes on the label which a lot people don't read just like they don't read owner's manuals. Both oil viscosity and classification are both got to paid attention to. You just can't use just any old oil without know what your doing or you are just asking for problems.

Oils that are design for big trucks can be also design and rated to use in gasoline engines; hence, that why API codes are needed to be checked. It is weight of the oil that that can become a problem as it got to get into the bearings to do its job and to lubricate the cylinder(s) without causing excess resistance. Too thick won't get in, too thin won't lubricate; it must be able to prevent metal to metal contact in a wide temperature range. Today oils also got additives so it will be compatible with our ever changing fuels and engine designs.

It isnt just the weight of the oil that is a factor - It is also the additive package which can vary among manufacturers even on the same weight oil -

Oil that works good in one application may experience excessive shearing, thickening or breakdown in others - Heat, fuel contaminants, type of lubrication system, and even the type of oil pump being used, - an engine that holds a greater oil capacity the oil can absorb and dissipate more heat (Oil is also a coolant!) but a smaller engine with less oil capacity, the oil may actually thicken as it exceeds the additive package's designed temperature range. Then you got the shearing involved with some types of oil pumps, then there's the splash lube factor - some oils designed for oil pump automotive engines may experience foaming in small splash lubricated engines... and if the dipper is just hitting foam, you've got a lubrication failure even with fresh clean oil within the oil fill range.

So, again, we'd only advise using a weight, and classification specified by the engine manufacturer. - Unless you know the exact properties of the oil you are using and the various effects of the engine operating conditions on the additive package (and vice versa) - Do you?

[KE4AVB]

Exactly where I can say that diesel oil can be used as long it also has required rating for the small engine.

Example: Briggs 10A902 specifics SAE30 with an API rating of SF or higher is recommend as per the owner's manual. Now an oil labeled for diesel use that is SAE30 with API SF or higher rating will work as it is the same oil just labeled differently for the consumer that don't know better.

It like a consumer insisting on Craftsman parts for their Craftsman AYP mower. The Craftsman label parts are much higher in price even though they are the same AYP parts that we get from AYP.

[creia]

in lawnmowers and almost all outdoor equipment, i use a 15w40 diesel oil.

That sounds like a great way to immediately VOID the manufacture's warranty including any claim for repairs/replacement if it specifies otherwise as to oil type/wt!?
I will defer the definitive answer to our Professional Tech members here who do warranty repairs.
Michael

I would like some of the professional techs that handle Briggs warranty claims/repairs to comment on my statement please?
Thank you,
Michael

[bgsengine]

in lawnmowers and almost all outdoor equipment, i use a 15w40 diesel oil.

That sounds like a great way to immediately VOID the manufacture's warranty including any claim for repairs/replacement if it specifies otherwise as to oil type/wt!?
I will defer the definitive answer to our Professional Tech members here who do warranty repairs.
Michael

I would like some of the professional techs that handle Briggs warranty claims/repairs to comment on my statement please?
Thank you,
Michael

Yup - voids warranty if it can be determined that the oil used was incorrect type and weight.

[rthacker7]

Wow, 4 pages of debate over what oil to use in what the op thinks is a Briggs motor. I think the definitive answer is right on the Briggs & Stratton
website.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/ ... mendations

Seems to me a 10w30 rated SF, SG, SH, SJ" or higher would be acceptable for all but the most extreme conditions, then a 5w30.
As for additive packages, that is something we will probable never know. I doubt any oil bottler or manufacture will ever tell what they
put in. Trade secret don't you know!

We have to depend on the label and I'm not so sure that is always accurate. I saw an instance where a customer ordered a 55 gallon barrel of
one kind of oil the distributor did not have, so they relabeled another barrel to meet the order. I'm sure I was not suppose to hear that.

[creia]

Thank you Brian- as I suspected!
Michael