old briggs engine, carb inquiry

[sgull]

No comments (yet) in regard to my inquiry on my last post here? Perhaps this thread in general is getting a little long in the tooth. Or just a dumb question?

[bgsengine]

was a little confusing what you were looking for comments on - but I see you wanted to know about using the permatex -

My advice would be to first do nothing to either of the surfaces and see if they naturally seal properly with new parts from the kit (Don't fix what ain't broke)

Burnishing the seats would be a last option before replacement - you could cause damage that does not yet exist by trying to fix something that may not need to be.

[Deere2me]

No comments (yet) in regard to my inquiry on my last post here? Perhaps this thread in general is getting a little long in the tooth. Or just a dumb question?

What BG said.

You ABSOLUTELY DO NOT wanna use that permatex crap!! I have a tube and it's way too coarse, and wont break down any finer usin it on brass/Qtip. I personally use a bit of scotchbrite pad and a skinny plastic screwdriver.
If it's messed up, just replace it, very easy to do.....read the manual.

[sgull]

What BG said. You ABSOLUTELY DO NOT wanna use that permatex crap!! I have a tube and it's way too coarse, and wont break down any finer usin it on brass/Qtip. I personally use a bit of scotchbrite pad and a skinny plastic screwdriver. If it's messed up, just replace it, very easy to do.....read the manual.

Okay I won't worry about burnishing any seats until it's apparent that might be necessary. And if I do I won't use the permatex crap. I'm unclear about your statement "if it's messed up, just replace it..." If the (brass?) float needle seat is messed up, I suppose I could try to replace it. But if the emulsion tube (nozzle) seat is messed up (if apparent after replacement with a new nozzle; and not the nozzle seat side but on the carb side of the seat itself), it seems "replacement" in that regard would mean replacement of the carb.

Also, I don't happen to have a repair manual for this carb. I suppose I could order one from Briggs, or obtain via another source (free would be nice), if I wanted/needed one bad enough?

[KE4AVB]

Also, I don't happen to have a repair manual for this carb. I suppose I could order one from Briggs, or obtain via another source (free would be nice), if I wanted/needed one bad enough?

Just go to the Download forum here and look under the Briggs Service Manuals for the Repairman Handbook and open the link. The manual covers 1919 thru 1981 engines. You can view the document or download it from there. The download button will appear when the mouse pointer is over any of the document's webpage and sign in is not required.

[sgull]

Just go to the Download forum here and look under the Briggs Service Manuals for the Repairman Handbook and open the link. The manual covers 1919 thru 1981 engines. You can view the document or download it from there. The download button will appear when the mouse pointer is over any of the document's webpage and sign in is not required.

Wow, thanks KE4AVB. I'll take the opportunity to look there for a manual of this particular carb. I coulda/shoulda looked there first; I kind of assumed it might not include carbs but just engines, but I'll certainly check it out. thanks again

[sgull]

I'll take the opportunity to look there for a manual of this particular carb. I coulda/shoulda looked there first; I kind of assumed it might not include carbs but just engines, but I'll certainly check it out.

Followup to above, just previously posted: Yup, there it is, in black and white. Everything I need to know now and most likely everything I need to know in the future about my two-piece medium Flo-Jet carb. Plus a wealth of valuable information there otherwise. For free. This site rocks. Thanks again

[Merkava_4]

I remember that carburetor. You had to remove the nozzle first if you wanted to separate the two halves. Also, where the two halves meet, you'll get air sucking through there if one of the halves is warped. The test for that is a .002'' feeler gauge between the two halves when it's fully assembled. If the feeler gauge slides in there, you'll always have a lean running carburetor. Those were great carburetors as long as the bowel cover wasn't warped. They have full mixture control and you could dial them in real good.

[sgull]

where the two halves meet, you'll get air sucking through there if one of the halves is warped. The test for that is a .002'' feeler gauge between the two halves when it's fully assembled. If the feeler gauge slides in there, you'll always have a lean running carburetor. Those were great carburetors as long as the bowel cover wasn't warped.

Thanks for that info Merkava_4. So I assume I'd check with the feeler gauge between the two halves with it fully assembled, meaning fully assembled with the gasket in between? Or no?
Also, I'll try to determine best I can if the bowl cover is or isn't warped (once I can determine for certain where/what is the bowl cover also).

[Merkava_4]

Thanks for that info Merkava_4. So I assume I'd check with the feeler gauge between the two halves with it fully assembled, meaning fully assembled with the gasket in between? Or no?
Also, I'll try to determine best I can if the bowl cover is or isn't warped (once I can determine for certain where/what is the bowl cover also).

Yes, you have the gasket in there and the screws fully tightened before attempting to slide the feeler gauge in there. What I'm calling the bowel cover is what they're calling the upper body. The lower body can be filed flat, but the upper body can't because the float hinge bosses are in the way. If the upper body is warped, you pretty much have to replace it.