Medium Flo Jet Emulsion Tube

[Mek-a-nik]

No numbers available, which is my main problem.

A bit of a long story. I'll post it all, in case it can help someone else. But the questions are at the bottom.

I'm working on a Briggs-powered log splitter. Horizontal with a medium flo jet and points. A "no-start". It had no spark. Another shop had replaced the mag and the points/condensor. The only thing I found was oil on the points. It then had spark.

It wouldn't start on its own. It tried to run on carb spray, but not well. Looking for water, I drained and flushed the gas tank and replaced the fuel filter and fuel line. No start. I removed the main needle assembly and shot carb spray in it and blew it out with air. (I was seeing if I could avoid carb disassembly.) The threads on the main needle assembly cracked when I re-installed it. I replaced it. It started and ran good. After about 2 minutes, it sputtered and died. (Didn't cut off clean, indicating that spark was there and it was a fuel problem.) It restarted it, and it and died the same way 3 times. I took the carb apart and it didn't have much crud in it. However, the float was set very low. Thinking that the bowl wasn't filling up enough, and letting it die out before it could refill itself, I ultrasonic-ed it, checked the needle and seat for flow and correctly installed depth of the seat, (ok), installed a new needle and seat, and re-set the float.
Here's where the problem is: While re-assembling the carb, I was screwing in the emulsion tube. I felt no resistance, it was just screwing down to its seat. All of a sudden, the long, thin end of the tube fell out onto the floor. The threaded part had broken off of it. I went from being ready to see if I fixed it, to needing an emulsion tube.

I found this Stens kit (below) that includes the tube, and the application is for different sized engines. I thought that maybe the emulsion tube was sized differently for different engines, and because I have no shroud (see next paragraph), I have no idea what engine it is! After finding this kit, I guess the tubes are all the same?

Because the engine has no shroud, I don't know what the numbers are. The customer says it hasn't run w/o the shroud. I told him if it has, it could well have overheated. I told him the shroud could be hard to get. (I used numbers from a similar engine, and it shows NLA.) It has what looks like an aftermarket pulley screwed to the original starter clutch, allowing a rope to be wrapped around it for starting. It's not an OEM pulley. I guess its off to EBay for a shroud?

Bottom line: Will the Stens kit work, and is a used shroud the only option?

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Produc ... 49/57246/s

[KE4AVB]

Haven't worked on enough of the older stuff to know for sure but looking at the ipls for 170000 and 190000 that I see there a few different nozzles part numbers used so I would say it would be crap shoot either way. Some of the others may know if they all have same threading I just don't know myself.

I wish users would not get rid of the old tins; unless, they make sure the numbers are recorded somewhere else on the engines. I specially brought an engraver and a letter/number stamp set to do this when I work on old engines.

[bgsengine]

Since the carb is adjustable, it *should* work if the new nozzle is the same length and O.D. as the old - the older style (Pre 1983) and the new style (after that date) were dropped from OEM kits. I believe There is little difference between the two other than a change in jetting (which can be compensated for by the adjustment) - that is why the aftermarket kits still come with nozzle (the nozzle by itself costs almost as much as the OE Kit without nozzle) - they are "will fit" parts, but as the carb is adjustable, all else being equal, you can adjust out any variations in fuel delivery - it just may not be exactly 1-1/2 turns out from seated.

[Merkava_4]

It's the blower housing and the rewind starter is what you're looking for. They're all over ebay. Start looking over the IPLs and find one that matches. This engine has the big gas tank in the front, correct? Start looking over the 170400 series and the 190400 series.

[Mek-a-nik]

Since the carb is adjustable, it *should* work if the new nozzle is the same length and O.D. as the old - the older style (Pre 1983) and the new style (after that date) were dropped from OEM kits. I believe There is little difference between the two other than a change in jetting (which can be compensated for by the adjustment)

So the newer and later style will both physically fit the carb? May just be calibrated differently, which presumably adjusts with the screw. I'm guessing this is the older style, because it has points.

It's the blower housing and the rewind starter is what you're looking for. They're all over ebay. Start looking over the IPLs and find one that matches. This engine has the big gas tank in the front, correct? Start looking over the 170400 series and the 190400 series.

Thanks, that's my next stop.

[Mek-a-nik]

I wish users would not get rid of the old tins; unless, they make sure the numbers are recorded somewhere else on the engines. I specially brought an engraver and a letter/number stamp set to do this when I work on old engines.

This guy is a good customer, and has spread my name around, so being that it's slow now, I figured I'd give it a whirl. Come busy season, I'd tell him I'll come by when I have time. (I'm mobile.)
Truth be told, he doesn't stick to the same story when I question him about equipment. So I take what he says with a grain of salt. In this case, he's told me that the engine was rebuilt, that it's a different used engine, and that this engine never ran without the shroud. I know for sure it's not rebuilt, it's got dirt and grease on it!

So, bottom line, I really have no idea what happened to the shroud.

[Mek-a-nik]

Looks like 491596 is the number for the shroud. It is available.

[Mek-a-nik]

Went back today.

Installed the 491596 shroud. Fit perfectly.

Installed the carb with the Stens kit (including emulsion tube) installed.

Hard to start, as it was previously, but ran well once running. I shut it off to correct the governor spring installation. It was attached in the wrong place entirely, and the engine only ran at 2500 rpm.

BTW, I ran it long enough to prove my theory that the float was too low previously.

Tried to start again, still very hard to start. (I thought it had been hard to start because the throttle wasn't being held open by the governor.) Nope,it would pop out the carb, stumble, occasionally pull the rope out of my hand, etc. It seemed to like carb spray shots in the plug hole, but even that didn't do a lot. It finally started. Ran good, but I had to shut it off, because the governor spring was too tight and the engine ran too fast. I loosened the spring a tad, and then went through the entire hard-to-start thing, with no luck.

The carb worked great when it ran, it didn't backfire while running, it just is a real bear to start. I checked the flywheel key, cleaned the (new) points and checked the gap again. No luck.

I'm beginning to think the mag that the previous shop installed is incorrect or faulty? The correct mag is 298968, I believe. Is the Magnetron replacement 398811? That's what I find. I'm wondering though, does the magnet's polarity need to be reversed? Remember, no numbers on this engine. I read that if the flywheel has one magnet, the polarity is okay. This flywheel has one magnet. Somewhere around the '81 model year, the polarity thing is an issue. It has a two legged mag, but I don't know if it's the right one.

Bottom line, I'd like to switch it to electronic and eliminate the points. Will the 398811 work?

[bgsengine]

Bottom line, I'd like to switch it to electronic and eliminate the points. Will the 398811 work?

Yes.

But as your symptoms are, I would be checking the flywheel key in any case, but if it still has points in it, then I'd definitely recommend the magnetron conversion - might also want to *consider* possibility of a valve clearance issue, and/or bad or wrong spark plug (NGK B4LM or Champion RJ19LM- we always had problems with Champions and indeed, had a couple winter duty engines where all we did was replace the new champion plug with an NGK and solved the problem..) - Just things to watch for and consider while putting in that magnetron coil

[Mek-a-nik]

But as your symptoms are, I would be checking the flywheel key in any case, but if it still has points in it, then I'd definitely recommend the magnetron conversion - might also want to *consider* possibility of a valve clearance issue, and/or bad or wrong spark plug (NGK B4LM or Champion RJ19LM- we always had problems with Champions and indeed, had a couple winter duty engines where all we did was replace the new champion plug with an NGK and solved the problem..) - Just things to watch for and consider while putting in that magnetron coil

I checked the key twice so far, each time I checked the points.

I'll keep valve clearance in mind. The compression checked okay. (I checked it before getting into this job very far.)

I read your posts before about Champion problems, I've been using them for 6 years now, haven't found a bad one. I did install one the first time I worked in this, a couple weeks ago, I'll try another, sure can't hurt.

Thanks for cutting to the chase on the 398811, I wasn't getting clear info by searching.

This job has been a challenge. I enjoy it though, Experience and knowledge I can use down the road.