Wheel hub removal

[frankp]

I tried to remove the wheel/hub off the axle of two model 824A Bolens snowblowers with little luck. I heated and destroyed three hubs and still haven't got the forth one off. I don't want to destroy any more hubs, so I'm trying to develop a better way. The first is to use the motor of the snowblower, after removing the locking pin. Unfortunately the next machine I need to take the wheels off, doesn't have a motor. I want to try a strap wrench approach to twist the wheel on the axle before trying to bang off. Any Ideas where I can get a tool or what I might use that will fit a 16" wheel? I was thinking of using a ratchet strap attached (some how? ) to a long 2X4 board for leverage. Any comment?

[bgsengine]

Got a welder? or take it to a welding shop, weld on a 3/4" heavy nut to the hub, centering it over the axle so a bolt threaded into the nut will push squarely on axle (Might have to downsize the nut if your axle shaft is smaller than a 3/4" diameter) and then lubricate threads and end of a grade 5 bolt with grease, run the bolt in with impact wrench to pull hub off axle. Once removed, you can often cut and grind the nut off the hub , clean, paint and re-use

[38racing]

I was thinking for my case of trying to get a knife type bearing puller on the inside so it pulls the hub right at the axle. That requires holes drilled through rim so pulling bolts can thread from cross piece puller through rim to knife piece. Thinking bsengine idea I might try without knife piece (especially since it may not fit). I'll drill the bolts holes and just thread them into a washer and nut on the inside of rim as close to centre as possible as cross puller piece is slotted right to centre almost. I use a socket just less than diameter of the axle and turn the puller bolt into it to keep it centred on the axle.

[frankp]

Two good ideas, Thanks. I'll report on my progress.

[KE4AVB]

I had found using brute force is not the way as I usually destroy whatever I am trying to remove when they are rusted on.

I have had some success using a rust dissolving penetrating oil to dissolve the rust if I could get any rotational back and forth movement of the hub. It still takes some time of working it back and forth and reapplying more as I go but I have removed several of them from the Troy-bilt Pony tillers. It usually takes me an hour to get these two pita wheels off. It is just not a fast way to do it. Just don't rotate them until you can't as you want that little free play to work with. You will get a little more movement over time until you get a full rotation and then you start working the hub same way by turning and pulling and pushing.

I haven't tried Brian's idea of the welded nut yet so I don't if it would work for me. First I got to get a non-customer's machine with a frozen hub to try it on.

This year I planning doing some experimental testing of muriatic acid because of its rust dissolving ability as I got a very old Troy-Bilt tiller with the similar wheels that are completely rusted on; no movement at all. I just haven't took the time as it is a junker but I still would like remove the wheels.

[wristpin]

Do like the welded on nut idea - logged for future use!
I'm not familiar with the machines that are mentioned so this may not be valid.
Drop the transmission,split it and remove the shaft complete with hub and put it under the hydraulic press.
Used to use that method on ride-on axle shafts where the wheel or hub had to come off. Not unusual to see 15 tons on the press before the shaft would move!

[bgsengine]

Drop the transmission,split it and remove the shaft complete with hub and put it under the hydraulic press.
Used to use that method on ride-on axle shafts where the wheel or hub had to come off. Not unusual to see 15 tons on the press before the shaft would move!

Yup - also a workable option when axles will come out that way - but as you noted, not a workable solution for this particular unit - most snowblower and rototiller applications will have a solid 1-piece axle so the hubs HAVE to be removed before the transmisison can be taken apart.

[frankp]

I'm glad the post is resulting in discussion. I haven't had time to work on the one that still has the hubs on the axle as I'm using that machine to guide me on taking out the transmission on the one that has the hubs removed. The object is to install new bushings on the wheel axle. What a job! The pro shop in the area told me it takes them three hours. I think it's going to take me three days, if I ever get it back. Im glad my three daughters are graduated from college.

I did however get a chance to discuss BS'snut idea with my welder. He thought it might be easier to weld a bolt 180 degrees apart on the hub and use these bouts with a flat bar piece the make a jacking tool with a third bolt on the center of the axle. He's the welder an will do it somehow.

I thought vinegar(acetic acid) was good for rust removal. I tried it but was not pleased. vineger might just be to weak. I like keroseane. then I can just get rid of it in the wood stove.

[bobodu]

Lots of heat....or the hot wax trick.

[38racing]

I'm glad the post is resulting in discussion. I haven't had time to work on the one that still has the hubs on the axle as I'm using that machine to guide me on taking out the transmission on the one that has the hubs removed. The object is to install new bushings on the wheel axle. What a job! The pro shop in the area told me it takes them three hours. I think it's going to take me three days, if I ever get it back. Im glad my three daughters are graduated from college.

I did however get a chance to discuss BS'snut idea with my welder. He thought it might be easier to weld a bolt 180 degrees apart on the hub and use these bouts with a flat bar piece the make a jacking tool with a third bolt on the center of the axle. He's the welder an will do it somehow.

I thought vinegar(acetic acid) was good for rust removal. I tried it but was not pleased. vineger might just be to weak. I like keroseane. then I can just get rid of it in the wood stove.

Your welder's idea is basically what I said only instead of welding the bolts to the rim I drill a hole in the rim and feed the bolts through the holes and put washers and nuts on them on the inside. The flat bar piece he refers to is my actual puller cross bar for the bearing puller. Regular vinegar is 5%. You can get cleaning vinegar which is 10%. I have used swimming pool muriatic with 50% water to use as a de-rusting bath for metal parts.