Need info on Onan CCK

[desertjoe]

Hello Guys,,,I went to the old site and tried to get some info and found out it no more,, I am one of those guys that never call,,,until you need something.....and I need something.
Is Carl, and Bobodu and Nevada Walrus still with this site? Did something happen to owner (can't remember his name) sorry.

Anyway, here goes. I took a Miller AEA200LE 200 Amp AC Welder Generator in on trade for some work. The driver is a Onan CCKAMS/2237G SN 174 747127. I knew the engine was stuck but welder supposed to be in perfect shape. I mixed up a batch of ATF/Acetone and filled both cylinders and let set for a few days. I finally got it to move some, so I took both heads off and they were full of rust, got em freed up and engine will roll but still tight. I want to pull both pistons and go ahead and re-ring it and replace one intake valve.
The Manual I downloaded does not show where to access the connecting rods but a guy on another forum told me access to rods is thru a 4 bolt cover "ON THE BTM" of engine.,,,!! just my luck! I did not want to have to separate from the welder but looks like no other way.
Are there any special precautions to support the welder armature when you break em loose from each other?
Thanks for any help..Joe r

[KE4AVB]

Hello Guys,,,I went to the old site and tried to get some info and found out it no more,, I am one of those guys that never call,,,until you need something.....and I need something.
Is Carl, and Bobodu and Nevada Walrus still with this site? Did something happen to owner (can't remember his name) sorry.

Carl, Bobodu and Nevada Walrus are all here. As for Perr site operator Bruce just retired and is enjoying it. He is here too btw just not as often.

Anyway, here goes. I took a Miller AEA200LE 200 Amp AC Welder Generator in on trade for some work. The driver is a Onan CCKAMS/2237G SN 174 747127. I knew the engine was stuck but welder supposed to be in perfect shape. I mixed up a batch of ATF/Acetone and filled both cylinders and let set for a few days. I finally got it to move some, so I took both heads off and they were full of rust, got em freed up and engine will roll but still tight. I want to pull both pistons and go ahead and re-ring it and replace one intake valve.
The Manual I downloaded does not show where to access the connecting rods but a guy on another forum told me access to rods is thru a 4 bolt cover "ON THE BTM" of engine.,,,!! just my luck! I did not want to have to separate from the welder but looks like no other way.
Are there any special precautions to support the welder armature when you break em loose from each other?
Thanks for any help..Joe r

I don't know about this myself but you may try the Smokstak group at http://www.smokstak.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=34 for help.

[bobodu]

Can't you just unbolt them both from the frame and roll em over as a unit?

[bobodu]

I bet you can find it here...https://www.google.com/#q=miller+welder+engine+removal

[RoyM]

The unit can be removed from the frame and the oil pan removed to access the innards, awkward due to the weight but it can be done. You would only need to split the engine from the generator to remove the crankshaft or camshaft. If you choose to do this be patient and keep track of what goes where during disassembly.

[KE4AVB]

That where probably a pair good engine cranes or similar comes in handy. I use 2 ton foldable versions here to work on auto engines. Now with my back giving me more trouble as I age and the fact I need a little help the larger lawnmower engines I am beginning to use in them in small engine shop. They makes things a lot safer especially when the engine or trans is being stubborn about doing what I need it to do.

[desertjoe]

Mr. BOBODU,,,,,a forum moderator,,,, I like it, I really do,,,I mean what better way to keep a rascal "in line?"
Aw,,and you went and changed your avatar,,,that's Ok, Guy,now I may want to use that pic to poke fun at the liberals,,,oops I mean, aw heck, just forget it.!!! Anyway, I love it, Dude.
Back to my story, I don't know why I didn't think of doin what you suggest. At first I thought you was just poking fun but, Looks like a lot of work,, but is the lessor of two evils. Based on what the con rod bearings look like is whether I open the main bearings.
Where's a good place to buy rings and gasket set for these Onans? Many thanks for all you Guy's help. Joe r

[bper]

Been a few years since I took the engine off one of these, so this may not be exactly right. The engine is held onto the rotor by a cast iron plate that has 4 bolts in it. You can get at these through the cooling screens after you remove the outside bolts holding the welder to the engine with an end wrench. If you do not need to get at the main bearing or remove the crankshaft, just leave the plate on and once the engine is separated and out, you can roll it on its side and work from the bottom. If you have some help you can easily lift it and remove the bottom pan or as was mentioned, use a cherry picker or hoist if alone.

If you need to remove the cast iron plate from the crankshaft, it is on a tapered shaft like many generator rotors - Bruce

[bobodu]

Here's one for ya Joe...still gotta build the brackets but ya get the idea.

[desertjoe]

Hey RoyM, Ke4AVB and Bruce,, thanks for the info, I appreciate it.
OK Bobodu,, now , you know I'm wantin to use that pic for an avatar, don'cha?
since you ain't goin to use it,,,,????