Need information for old Homelite Chainsaw

[creia]

I have an old (25+ years) "Homelite XL" chainsaw, Model # UT10656, Ser # 5G2980173. We are trying to get it running and sure could use an operating manual. I have been to Homelite's website and they do not list that model- maybe too old? I have contacted/emailed them as well- have not heard back yet. Also, does anybody know the initial carb settings (# of turns out) for the hi-speed and low-speed mixture screws when first trying to get it running?
Thanks for any help.
Michael

[RoyM]

Homelite has changed hands twice since that saw was built, no service information available from them. Set your screws at 1-1/8 turns from seated for initial start up. Does it have spark? Can you suspend the saw by the starter handle without it dropping? If you can compression should be adequate. Squirt a spritz of gas in the carb throat, if it fires and quits you have fuel system issues. At the very least you will need a spark plug, carb diaphragm kit, fuel lines and a fuel filter.

[KE4AVB]

Info and parts on these older saw can be hard to come by and some model number duplication or that what I have found.

The number is coming back as a little red plastic case model. Is this correct? The number comes up with two different versions plus one version that the vendor list but don't the IPL. If you can post a picture of the saw and I might be narrow down which it is.

I also have a copy of the older service manual for the even older XL models with the cast aluminum engine cases. It is 15mb is size.

[bgsengine]

Yup on all the above - I used to be a dealer for Homelite ,(1988-1993) back when it was its own company, or Textron owned (Textron North America) .. then they went to John Deere for a while (Distributor still now and then ships us parts that have "John Deere" on the package.. talk about new old stock.. LOL!) currently owned by Techtronics Industries (TTI) - so Homelite, Ridgid, Ryobi, Milwaukee, AEG are all Chinese Brands these days.. (Insofar as electric or gas powered tools - But, like the Generac company and Briggs Power, Ridgid still makes *other* tools under that brand - There's Vacuums, Pipe Threaders, etc that are *NOT* made by TTI or serviced by TTI Dealers... customer service phone calls can be such a pain in the behind sometimes.. LOL!)

As far as service manuals, I *may* have one in pdf format - But as KE said, there are several models of XL and SuperXL - as well as XL2 - What is needed is the UT Number (which you have posted), which is the actual model, used to identify the exact machine and parts for it, so I'll try and check some time today to see if we can locate parts catalogs and/or service manials for you.

Initial carb settings, like most any other older Non-EPA 2-stroke, would start out at 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns from seated, which should be enough to get it to fire, and from there, just takes a little experience to determine which way to turn adjustments for best operation.

[Skywatcher]

Hi Creia

25 years ago when these little units were still being produced and were a very popular saw, they were selling up here in Canada for about $125.00. At the time I was working at a JD dealer, and was the small engine specialist. As I had some Homelite training in my previous job, we would work on these little units. It used to take me 2 hours to do a complete service (strip down & clean all parts, new diaphragms in carb and oil pump, clean and adjust breaker points, grease sprocket bearing, dress bar, sharpen chain, reassemble and tune). That was back when the shop rate was $22·50/hr and OEM parts were still quite cheap so for $55.00 and no tax, the machine was like new.

Now with shop rates varying from $50.00 to $80.00 depending where you go, these little units just aren't worth having fixed any more. However, if you are fixing this little unit for your own interest, they can be an interesting little learning project. The carb kits are still available through many after-market suppliers, however, the oil pump diaphragms and gaskets are getting a little scarce. Were you looking for an operators manual, a parts manual or a tech (shop) manual for this unit?

As Roy says, compression cylinder and crankcase) on these little two cycles is very important. The muffler is easily removed to check piston and ring, there is a reed valve in behind the carburetor that can sometimes get gummed up if the unit has been sitting a long time. If the unit has breaker points behind the flywheel, they should be set to .015". I used to use initial carb settings of 1½ for low and 1¼ for high and fine tune from there. Let us know how you make out with this project. All the best,

Sky

[Kiss4aFrog]

Here is a link for a parts list with exploded diagrams.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Homelite-Parts-Manuals-For-Chain-Saws/Homelite-Chain-Saw-Parts-Manual-For-XL-Chain-Saw-UT-10656.pdf

This is for a collectors website with a lot of info on older models but I didn't see your specific model in the list.

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/GasbyManufacturer?OpenView&Start=53.180&Count=30&Expand=53#53

[KE4AVB]

The problem I had is that not only did I find the Little Red 190 version but I also found a 240 listed with same UT number which has a different design; hence, the reason I requested a picture of the saw. This was to see if it was the Little Red 190, the 240 or another XL version with same UT number which I couldn't pull the IPL for.

[bgsengine]

The problem I had is that not only did I find the Little Red 190 version but I also found a 240 listed with same UT number which has a different design; hence, the reason I requested a picture of the saw. This was to see if it was the Little Red 190, the 240 or another XL version with same UT number which I couldn't pull the IPL for.

Because they are all pretty much the same animal in a different hide. the UT number is the definitive model , regardless of the color or stickers. Note that the FULL UT number is important - there can be a VERY big difference between a UT-xxxxx-A and a UT-xxxxx-B

[creia]

Thanks for the help guys- it is sincerely appreciated
An update: My son has got it running fairly well using the suggestions here, however, it smokes (white/gray color) a bit more than I remembered. He did a full carb cleaning (ultrasonic), cleaned out fuel tank, hose, and filter, and new spark plug. The carb diaphram "appeared " in surprisingly good condition (still pliable, with no holes) so did not try replacing it - yet. If memory serves me (less and less reliable every year) I purchased this new for a specific project back in the mid-1980's when I was a builder. It was used to cut large beams down to size before raising them up with a hoist on a home I was building in Palm Springs, CA. I bet the saw never saw more than 50 cuts, and was put back in its case and has been stored in my garage ever since. Accordingly, with such limited use, I would think that the saw would not even be close to being worn out (bore/rings) and should be able to provide service for years to come?
I finally did get a hold of Homelite customer service (telephone), and they told me that chainsaw was manufactured in 1981 (33 years old!). They did not have a operating manual or parts diagram for it, (nothing before 1984) and when they entered the UT # for THIS chainsaw, another UT # now comes up (UT 10578). She emailed me both the manual and parts diagram for THAT saw, and while it is somewhat similar, it is not the same saw.
To bgsengine- There is no letter after the UT 10656. Thank you for your help (as always) and I would welcome any documents you may be able to locate.
To KE4AVB - Yes, it is the "little red" all plastic case XL, however, NOT the "190"
To Kiss4aFrog- The link you provided actually brings up/defers to the UT10578 model which Homelite provided me.
To Skywatcher- Yes, working on it is "for our own interest" (actually my son's)
To Roym- Thank you, duly noted.
Regards,
Michael
Sidebar: I think that my son Jeff will be posting some photos of the saw later today or this evening.

[ParkinLube]

I have a bunch of the old Homelite manuals and IPLs on my site: http://www.parkinlube.com/pdfs.aspx . They are free for the downloading (as long as you don't try to download all of them and kill my bandwidth). There is also a service manual that should cover your saw. Use the "ctrl-f" function to do a search on the page for what you are looking for. Once you find the manual you need, click on it to open it and then you can save a copy to your hard drive. Have fun!!

Oh, as for the excessive smoking, you are probably missing the duckbill valve on the oil tank and it is sucking back chain oil into the combustion chamber and burning it.