Dixon ZTR Zero Turn

[davbell25413]

Anybody have shop manual or wiring diagram for a Dixon ZTR with Kohler 20 mag engine from 1987.

It will start by jumping the starter but when you turn the key it goes urrr.

[bgsengine]

Do a voltage drop on the starting circuit, you'll probably find the problem. the fact that it starts fine when jumped direct from battery should tell you what to expect to find.

[KE4AVB]

What about posting the model number and I see if I can find diagram on it.

[davbell25413]

What about posting the model number and I see if I can find diagram on it.

Not sure right now. But I thinks its one of these models 308, 311, 427,428, and 501. I dont have the mower here right now. The person is bringing it by on Monday. I asked him for the 3 digit model and first 5 digit of serial from what I found on the Dixon site under the manuals.

[bobodu]

Goes "err" sounds like a bum connection or solenoid....best part is it ain't a safety !!!
Get hold of Walt...he can probably fix you up with the wires.

[mwerles]

try here:http://www.dixonztrparts.com/pages/oemparts?aribrand=DXN#/Dixon/ZTR_308_(1987)/WIRING_ASSEMBLY/0190/01900011
Les

[okie]

try here:http://www.dixonztrparts.com/pages/oemparts?aribrand=DXN#/Dixon/ZTR_308_(1987)/WIRING_ASSEMBLY/0190/01900011
Les

http://www.dixonztrparts.com/pages/oemparts?aribrand=DXN#/Dixon/ZTR_308_(1987)/WIRING_ASSEMBLY/0190/01900011


Clickable link

Travis

[wobbedennis]

IT sounds like a bad connection in the starter solenoid to me. The fact that if jump it will turn over and start pretty much eliminates the starter, but I'm curious. did he use the battery in the machine? or another battery?

[bgsengine]

The fact that if jump it will turn over and start pretty much eliminates the starter

Not necessarily eliminates bad ground though - if you jump from an external battery direct to engine ground and to starter , you are also bypassing the B+ and Ground circuits.

The "Errr" buzz can come from a starter spinning up into engage the flywheel ring gear and then not enough current flow to spin the starter, which is more often caused by a bad or weak battery or bad ground. (or a hydrolocked engine, or failed compression release)

Solenoid, if it is a very weak battery, can "buzz" as well, though, but that is not a symptom (usually) of a bad solenoid, but rather a weak battery or bad connection. So, the best place to start is with a quick and easy (and fast) voltage drop test to narrow down where the problem may be located... and the really cool thing about THAT is, you don't need a wiring diagram to do those tests.

[Walt 2002]

A Dixon mower with a factory installed twin Kohler will be a 501 IF, IF, it is any of the ones you listed. Actually, all the 501s I ever saw had twin B&S engines. Twin Kohler would have been later. This is typical of an old Dixon with safety switches losing conductivity, not carrying enough current to cause the solenoid to make a good hard "hit". This generally applies to Kohler and Kawa engines. Simple cure is to add a second solenoid ahead of the original, connecting all the original wiring to the second solenoid and using the second one then to power the original solenoid. Wire form one large second solenoid terminal to battery cable connection on first solenoid, wire from second large terminal on second solenoid to engage terminal of original solenoid.

DO check that you cable connections are good including ground before doing anything. Jump directly from the negitive terminal of the mower battery to the starter housing one cable only and see if works OK. Yes, bad ground connection at battery OR to frame. Do same using the positive cable only directly to starter terminal.

I MAY have a wiring diagram, contact me at address below, put in proper format and remind me what you have and what you want.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com