B&S Generator XL4000

[plpitts1]

Hello,
I have a B&S , LX4000 – 5300 Starting Watts generator, with a B&S 6.5HP motor #s 122132 0132 E8. The piston does not move when the pull cord is pulled. Everything else is rotating including the rotor assembly inside the generator. I’m guessing the connecting rod has come apart. Also the crank case is cracked and leaking oil. Thinking it needs a new motor. I am trying to remove the generator from the engine. Slid the Stator off, unbolted the cover from the engine, but cannot seem to get the rotor off of the crank shaft. Cannot really see anywhere to pry of attach a pulley. I have removed the long screw that holds it to the shaft. How do I remove this? And any other suggestions would be greatly Appreciated.
Thanks, Pat

[Deere2me]

I think Briggs makes a kit for removing rotors. #41079. But all you really need is a new rotor mtg bolt to replace the old one that yer gonna cut off.
The rotor is threaded to accept a jack bolt, so , take the original rotor bolt and cut about an inch or so off the end. Then slot the cut end to accept a screwdriver. Then screw the "stud" in the crank, and use a jack bolt to apply pressure on the stud. Then smack the jackbolt with a hammer, and the rotor will pop off. Before you cut the orig. bolt off, measure the depth of the jackbolt threads in the rotor, so as not to cut the "stud" too short. If the rotor ain't threaded, then you will need to thread it to accept the jack bolt/screw.
The studs in the kit are 5/16-24 X 4 7/8", 5 1/4", 5 7/8", 6 7/8", 8 7/8", 10 1/4" long. Also has one 1/4-20 X 5 3/8".

[KE4AVB]

I pretty think the same thing with a crack crankcase.

Others will probably have better ideas But here goes from what I was told how to it on my first removal.

First check to see if where you remove that long bolt is threaded or not. Some are threaded so a jack bolt can be used to remove the rotor and others are not.

The only rotor I have removed so far required hitting the side of the rotor with a heavy hammer. I had put the long back in but left loose. This was to keep the rotor from coming off completely and getting damaged or hurting myself. Then I put a 2x4 against the side of the rotor and gave the 2x4 while against the rotor a few good whacks and the rotor jarred a loose and I was then able to remove the rotor from the tapered shaft. The 2x4 provides a small cushion to help prevent damage to the rotor laminations from getting damage from metal to metal contact.

[Arkie]

Several methods to remove rotor from the tapered shaft of the engine.

You might seen some on you tube.

One method is too stand the gen on its side with the rotor up, remove the long center bolt, pour the rotor hole full of motor oil, the heavier grade the better, wrap about 5 turns of Teflon plumbers sealant tape around a jack bolt and use a air impact and run the jjack bolt in so as to hydraulic off the rotor.
Sometimes the end of the rotor is not threaded for a jack bolt. You have to use a tap and tap the rotor shaft for the jack bolt. (Usually a 3/8 fine thread tap)

If it's a tapered crankshaft type engine they are not easily found used, therefore try to save your crankshaft for further inspecting engine the damages.

[plpitts1]

Wow, all sounds good, I will not get to it till Monday but will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the replies.
Pat

[plpitts1]

Hello,
Before I spend a lot of time on this…. Is this worth the effort, or would you guys normally call it dead. A new motor runs about $300 to $350. I was told that it worked till the motor went, but it’s been in storage for a little while. Seems to be about an $800 unit, used heavily. I guess my question is, does the generator part of these units usually last much longer than the engine??
Appreciate any input you might have,
Thanks,
Pat

[bgsengine]

I wouldn't bother - Have one in the shop with a tecumseh engine on it with the same problem - quoted the repair job, and customer figured they can get a new generator in the same size for less money, so it is sitting outside waiting for customer to pick it up (not holding my breath)

Generally the Gen unit would expect to last about as long as an average maintained engine would (rated 250-300 hours or so, I think) so you'll eventually have to do some gen head repairs, most likely, which seem to have a bad habit of starting to break down right after you put $300-$400 into a new engine, and then realize you should have just gotten a whole new genset.

[plpitts1]

Thanks, I figured that would be the case. I believe I well save the money. Sure appreciate the responses.
Thanks,
Pat