murray rider 405000x8 clutch/brake adjustment

[stienut13]

Hi all,

Decided to change the belts after 11 yrs, just maintenance. This is a 2003 model 40 inch cut with a Briggs. Now I have a problem with the brake/clutch foot pedal. Got drive belt installed, but brake pedal hardly moves when depressed. It sticks up about midway like it did, just no movement.The swivel pin end on the clutch rod goes thru the parking brake plate into the hole in the lever on the end of the brake rod, BUT>>>>>>>> the manual says "pull clutch forward till tight, turn adjustable nut until the nut will fit thru the hole in the brake lever." I'm still 1/2 " short and can't pull the clutch lever forward as the rear part is attached on a spring loaded bracket on top of the tranny. It needs to turn clockwise some more. I DID NOT HAVE THE BRAKE SET WHEN I REMOVED THE DRIVE BELT. THE INSTRUCTIONS SAY IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN SET.
Does the idler pulley set-up have something to do with this. All belt faces are properly oriented, but when I change gears, there is no real tension produced on the drive belt. Think I have several issues

Any help is appreciated, I put 5 hours in this thing today and I'm sore and at my wit's end.

Thanks,

Jim

[StarTech]

Jim, I assuming you put on a 1/2 x97-1/2 belt.

The following will the correct belt path.
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Jacks-Parts-Lookup/Model-Diagram/MURRAY/13046/20954

[stienut13]

Hi Star,
Thanks for the reply.

It is a PIX 37x87. Belt routing looks correct. Seems something to do with the idler and the plate on top of the tranny. Now that the sun is down a little, I can see the idler pulley doesn't look like it's in the correct position, maybe needs to be rotated some. Something is holding up brake pedal, and hence no travel. It's soooo hard to push the brake pedal, something just isn't right. Doesn't appear to be a belt problem, but mechanical and proper belt installation. Hence my query.

Thanks,

Jim

[StarTech]

Sounds like the idler bracket swing point binding. It over the transmission under the battery compartment. Easy to rust here from moisture and battery acid. You probably need to pull the trans to get to the area; although, if your very good may not.

Personally if I got to work in that area I would pull it so I could see just what is all going on but that is just my personal preference.

[mwerles]

Look closely at the belt routing pic,it is shown from the top,you will be looking at the bottom, it is possible that you have the wrong side of the belt on the idler,easy to do, been there!
Les

[stienut13]

Hi Less,

That was the issue, kind of. I had the belt running off the wrong SIDE of the mower, right not left. Flats to flats , groves to groves, just bass ackwards. Important to this repair is that the PARKING BRAKE MUST BE ENGAGED. This allows you to get the belt between the Shift plate and the shift lever connection. Then shift to 2 or 3 gear for clearance. Sometimes you get so tired and aggravated, and what looks intuitive is just plain wrong.
The owners manual leaves out lots of steps, ie: to remove the steering column, you have to take off the top of the console, and gas tank cause the column will only come vertically. Anyway, it's done and thanks again.

Jim

[StarTech]

Don't forget mwerles helped to enforce things. Tnx Les.

[stienut13]

Hi Less and Star,

Way tired when I posted, thanks to you, too, Less. Didn't meant to slight you. Y'all have been great.

Thanks again,

Jim

[mwerles]

Not a problem,glad I could help
Les