Husqvarn 326LX trimmer hard to pull

[dockterj]

This trimmer runs good it is just really hard to pull. Almost like it has too much compression. I've taken it completely apart and I don't see anything wrong. Motor spins freely with the plug out. The exhaust port is clear (actually all ports are clear). There is a little crud build up on the piston but it looks like a normal amount, nothing that should affect compression.

I'm stumped. Any ideas?

[bgsengine]

broken e-z start spring? Common on Poulan-Weedeater junk, which this is, just in Husky orange. - back when I stocked them, could go through about 15 - 20 of those springs a month during the season.

[dockterj]

I'll check the spring tonight but the pull rope retracts so I'm not sure that is it. I thought this was a Swedish made model but are you saying it is junk and not worth putting any time into?

[bgsengine]

Look at the serial number label . Not all Husqvarna is made in Sweden - some of them are simply re-badged Weedeater - the serial number will tell the tale, as well as the emissions label. - The weedeater ones - you can buy the same stuff at wal-mart and sears for a LOT less money - That's just Husqvarna trading on their brand to get a little more out of a cheap piece of crap.

The spring I refer to will be in between (if it exists) the starter pulley and the cam that engages starter pawls on the flywheel - the purpose is to make it seem lighter on the pull, but you'll notice a "springy" feel to the recoil - that's the spring winding itself up until the engine kicks past compression and then the energy from the spring spins flywheel much faster than you otherwise could - Echo calls it the i-Start system, Stihl has similar systems, as do Poulan, Husqvarna, Homelite and Husqvarna... but the ones with the most common problem of the spring breaking is in the Poulan-Weedeater products


However.. Taking a look at what I am GUESSING is your model on the parts diagrams, I'd have to say that this one is actually one of the swedish made ones, and the particular version *I* am looking at right now, does not use that damper spring.... (the first one I looked at, I missed the "3" and was looking at a 26



But as I said, the serial number outta tell the tale as to what you have got on hour hands.

[dockterj]

It is a Swedish made model:
Husqvarna 326L X Series
ETECH II

326 2HVXS 0254ED 25CC

968 05 71-01
03 07014 18

968 05 70

Like I said, once started it runs great but pulling the starter through a complete cycle takes so much force my wife can't start it. If I take the spark plug out the engine pulls over smoothly. I've ruled out blocked ports, clutch, magneto. I'm out of ideas here.

[Deere2me]

It might have a buildup in the top of the cylinder. You can try using "de-carbonizing fluid" avail from yer Stihl dealer. Call em' first, they may have to order it . It works, messy, but works.

[StarTech]

Just some thoughts...Appears to be 2003 model

It may simply be a worn out starter pulley/bushing that binding under load or it need to be converted over to the spring assist starter system.

It should still have the 503 85 87-01 starter assembly which you should be able to replace with the 537 41 16-02 spring assist starter.

[Babyhauler]

Mine is doing this exact problem. Daily use Husky 326. My Husky 323 edger has tried this a few times, but never got as mad as the 326 & not pull. 326 had been hard a few times before.
New user here. I have disassembled mine down to the block. No carb, no exhaust, no starter, no plug and it is easy to spin it over by hand with the flywheel or the starter engagement plate (?) on the other side of engine.
However, if you put your finger over the spark plug hole or loosely thread it in, it becomes extremely difficult to turn over. You can make it go, but once over, it rolls easily until compression again. Take finger off & easy again. Exactly as it was when the trimmer was assembled & running before all this happened. Crank & flywheel are tight, no slack. No different noises when running.
Years of syn oil & piston top has minimum amount of carbon. Intake & exhaust piston view is very smooth & clean on both sides. No weird sounds or scraping noises when rotating crank.
Does this thing have reed valves in it or some type of valve, cause that is all that is left before I take the block apart.
This is a weird problem & I hope someone has an answer.

Thanks

Babyhauler

[bgsengine]

Really, to be honest, a compression test needs to be done - they do not have any valves or reeds that would affect compression - definitely does seem weird if the problem started suddenly but if the compression is within specification, I would not even try tearing the block apart - as noted in other posts - the engine should be pulled over with the recoil assembly - if it is hard to pull, generally you will be wanting to look at the recoil starter if no binding is found with the starter off and spark plug out.

*edit* actually, just remembered a Husqvarna saw we had last year that had a split recoil pulley - everything seemed fine visually but when under compression, the rope would "wedge" itself in the pulley because pulley was cracked enough to allow 2 wraps of rope to wedge side by side in that one spot on the pulley where it was cracked - replaced pulley and restored the starting quality of the saw. - way we found it was to pull it over easy while under compression until it wanted to stop, and then clamp off the rope in the starter with vise grips, remove starter, and inspect , and that is where we found the split pulley due to 2 pieces of rope wedging together and flexing the pulley in to bind on the recoil spring.