Kawasaki FE290D Not running wide open without half choke

[mwerles]

Sounds like fuel delivery issue to me,have you checked tank vent?How about fuel line,filter if equipped? When it stops,it appears there is still spark,so probably not the coil.Might try another plug
Les

[allseasons]

Alright! I think I got it! RoyM and mweries, I think you are correct. I went back out one last time tonight to try and remember what I did when I first started troubleshooting it. Originally, once I determined I felt it was a fuel problem, I bypassed the entire fuel system and hooked up my small electric pump to a 5gal can of fresh gas. The result was the same. So at that point I ruled out the fuel lines and the fuel pump, (although I still changed the filter as I always do), and the rest is history. Tonight, I once again bypassed the fuel system with my electric pump and started it up. I noticed this time it briefly ran perfect then once again started to cut out just like it did before. However, this time, knowing it wasn't a case of a dirty carb, I turned off the pump and let it just run on the fuel in the bowl. Guess what! It ran perfect! Obviously the electric pump was over powering the float and flooding the carb. (I have used this method many times and never had a problem) I am assuming the original diaphragm pump was doing the same thing. Tomorrow I will replace the pump and see how it does.
Thanks again.
Chad

[bgsengine]

Thought occurs to me.. On some Nikki Carburetors, that otherwise seem identical, there's a small , easily missed difference - Float Needles.

On some that are *gravity feed* , the float needle may have a spring loaded pintle to it.. if that needle is replaced by a needle from a fuel pump equipped carburetor which, on *some* units, does NOT have that feature (The needles otherwise look identical in length and size/shape, if you hold the spring compressed on the one needle, lengths are the same...) the carburetor may leak.. and vice versa (fuel pump pressure overcomes the spring rate of the gravity fed float needle, while a fuel pump float needle is not "long enough" for the float to normally close the needle fully, so float ends up being "high" and allowing fuel to leak..)
- I wonder if the replacement carburetor (or the original in fact) might not have been designed for a gravity feed system, and thus have incorrect needle and/or seat for a fuel pump equipped engine..

Just an obscure thought, though.. but one that may be worth considering, if you can find out the history of the unit as it was originally configured..

- Like I said, it may apply only to *certain* carburetors or even brands of carburetors, but I have started to notice these differences a little bit on a growing variety of Nikki Carburetors that I come across.. I don't have a long enough record of checking this though as it was only something I recently noticed (No service information, nor parts, exists on the carburetors in question, as they are not intended to be serviceable - only replaced. ) I'm doing some research in the shop on a whole pile of old carbs off the bench to try and more precisely identify things like bowl gaskets, float needles, and floats and work up an interchange with known service parts from Briggs and Kohler.. many of which are perfect fit cross references, but have not found any known cross reference to it other than mine.

[allseasons]

Well, I was wrong last night. The fuel pump situation was not the problem. I am now back to square one. You can now ad new fuel line and pump to the trouble shooting. And I've ruled out a sheared flywheel key too. I am at a loss at this point once again.

On a side note, BG, I looked at the needle on the old carb and it is spring loaded. I hooked up my electric pump to it and it quickly pushed the spring up and let fuel through even with the float closed. However, It was a factory rig that the owner bought brand new off the showroom. It has never had any problems until recently. So I don't think the spring is what is causing my problem, but did have an affect with the electric pump.

BACK TO SQUARE ONE!

[allseasons]

I'm back to try and figure this thing out again. I'm really hoping we can nail this thing this time.

First a little recap on what my problem is and what has been done to try and correct it thus far.

The problem:
Engine runs rich and appears to be starving for air. However! It does seem to run better with the air filter and cover on, meaning it won't kill it's self but just dumps black smoke out. If the air filter and cover are off, it will choke out and die at full throttle. I posted a video a couple post back for any new comers.

What has been done, in no particular order:
New carburetor
new plug
good compression test
good leak down test
set valves (twice)
replaced gaskets between carb/spacer/head
Checked for sheared keyway (good shape)
removed muffler screen
removed muffler completely (no change, but I did notice a constant blue flame emits at idle speed and orange fire at high rpm)
Video test shows a constant colored spark even when it tries to die
rebuilt fuel pump (verified good flow)


I may have forgotten something but this is where I'm at. I know things have changed since my first diagnosis but currently, my problem is a rich condition at high RPM. (it idles perfect)

Set.....GO!

[StarTech]

This engine appears to the ignitor built into the coil. It is possible the the automatic ignition timing device in the coil's ignitor has failed causing ignition timing problems. If you have a spare coil pack for the engine I would try swapping it out and see if fixes the problem.

The following might explain better:

[allseasons]

Thanks for that info. A new coil is about $100. I wish I had a spare one to try. Throwing another $100 at it just to see if that might be the problem, is a problem. Where did you find that this engine uses a automatic ignition timing device? I guess it's all built into the coil? The coil appears to be just a run of the mill coil. What you are saying does make sense, since the timing would advance at higher RPM if electronically controlled.

[StarTech]

Where did you find that this engine uses a automatic ignition timing device? I guess it's all built into the coil? The coil appears to be just a run of the mill coil. What you are saying does make sense, since the timing would advance at higher RPM if electronically controlled.

The repair manual under ignition system. It explained the one here that would run fine cold and but would after-fire like shotgun going off when warmed up; nearly set my pants leg on fire the first time it did it not to mention what else happen.

Thanks for that info. A new coil is about $100. I wish I had a spare one to try. Throwing another $100 at it just to see if that might be the problem, is a problem.

That the reason behind the suggestion if you had a spare one on one hand. It is something that I don't keep either for the same reason. Only about 10 percent of my work is Kawasaki. This is where the Kawasaki coils with the external ignitors are easier to fix; parts costs less. Look around in some of the shops that have used engines around and they might have the one you need.

There is times that you have to put things aside until you find the parts. Costs does figure in repairs with some engines becoming too costly to fix. This where a replacement engine is best and the old one is parted out.

[allseasons]

I've never tried this on any small engine, but what would be the result of putting on a coil off a different model Kawi? I have a 12hp coil I could try and install. Not sure what would happen or even if the bolts would line up. I stumbled upon a golf cart MB that one guy sugggested to the OP to unplug the RPM limiter. He did and it fixed his problem. Well I searched all over for a RPM limiter on this one I have and found nothing. So I just unplugged the ground going to the coil and I had no change in performance. But if you review the video, the spark in the tester never changes when the engine chokes out. This makes me VERY hesitant to drop $100 on a coil.

[KE4AVB]

I've never tried this on any small engine, but what would be the result of putting on a coil off a different model Kawi? I have a 12hp coil I could try and install. Not sure what would happen or even if the bolts would line up.

I wish things were that simple. Nowadays every make and model series uses different coil setups; sometimes, even within the same model series. Flywheels can be different size, magnets in slightly different location, mounting could be different just among a few things to consider.

Post the engine numbers from the engine the coil is being pulled from and we check to see if the part numbers are the same as for yours; I kinda doubt it will be.