Southland push mower control cable

[Mr Mower Man]

I really do hate these oddball brands of equipment that some people will buy for whatever reason. How am I supposed to find parts for them? Somebody brought me a Southland push mower "Ranch King" (model #674-0622RK) with a seized control cable. I visited a local dealer and matched it up with an AYP 176556 cable, but the inner wire is about 1" too long compared with the conduit, so it won't pull the engine brake open. I've looked through my Stens, Rotary, and Oregon catalogs, but all the control cables I can find have an inner wire that's just a little too long compared to the conduit. This mower is a 2005 model, according to the date code on the Briggs engine. Anyone out there have an idea where I can find a new cable?

[bgsengine]

https://www.usaopps.com/government_cont ... RATION.htm might be helpful, but looking on some places with parts lookups, Ill bet you the cable is NLA.

[rogerf]

Hi,

I would just buy a "universal cable" and cut it to length using the old cable as a guide. The outer part of the cable cuts easily with a good pair of electricians pliers. You can fashion the "z" bend on the inner cable using two pairs of pliers or the "z bend tool" from Stens and many others. The inner cable is hardened and needs a pair of pliers designed for cutting hardened steel wire, or you could use an angle grinder.

Seeing as you already have a new cable why not adjust it to length as described above, using the original as a guide?

Good luck and cheers,
Roger

[bgsengine]

Hi,
Seeing as you already have a new cable why not adjust it to length as described above, using the original as a guide?

Good luck and cheers,
Roger

Think "aircraft cable" (as in braided wire) as opposed to solid wire which you are thinking of such as in throttle controls - MZR cables (Manual Zone Restart) which are pretty much standard equipment here in the USA gotta be flexible to work with the constant flexing change of angles its use demands So unless you know a way to securely and safely (to meet manufacturing standards) cast or mold a new metal end to the cable, and willing too take the liability risk if your repair fails, your only option is to find the correct fitting cable.

[KE4AVB]

Depending how it is mounted there is one additional possible thing and is to move the mounting point of the housing.

[Mr Mower Man]

Depending how it is mounted there is one additional possible thing and is to move the mounting point of the housing.

The phone number Brian gave me is no longer in service, so that's probably what I'm gonna hafta do. I think I'll just drill a hole in the handle about 1" lower than the current hole. The housing design is such that it "snaps" onto the handle. Seems pretty straightforward, anyway.

[rogerf]

Hi,
Seeing as you already have a new cable why not adjust it to length as described above, using the original as a guide?

Good luck and cheers,
Roger

Think "aircraft cable" (as in braided wire) as opposed to solid wire which you are thinking of such as in throttle controls - MZR cables (Manual Zone Restart) which are pretty much standard equipment here in the USA gotta be flexible to work with the constant flexing change of angles its use demands So unless you know a way to securely and safely (to meet manufacturing standards) cast or mold a new metal end to the cable, and willing too take the liability risk if your repair fails, your only option is to find the correct fitting cable.

Hallo BGS,
My mistake, we don't have many of that type here. Mostly small push mowers. Interesting to note the flexible multi-stranded wire use. Putting a new end on multi stranded wire is an altogether different task as you suggested. It can be possible if the ends are available and the wire will allow soldering without spoiling the steel cable, however it's almost certainly easier and safer just to move the controller by drilling another hole.

Cheers,
Roger.

[Mr Mower Man]

The solution was so simple, I wonder now why I went through so much trouble trying to find the original cable. I drilled a hole about 3/4" below the existing mounting hole for the "snap-on" cable housing, and the AYP cable I used (176556) works perfectly.