Tecumseh HSSK40 Type1 Carb - What Are Replacement Options?

[Deere2me]

... I tore the carb down and noticed the hole in the choke plate as well as the fuel needle seat being very hard. It was soft when I installed it but was very hard so that may have played a role in it as well.

So, here is where I stand:

3. I plan to rebuild it this week with new fuel line, fresh float and seal, idler screw o-rings, jet to bowl gakset, bowl to carb gasket. The carb to intake gaskets were in good shape (just new a year ago). Anything else major I missed that I should do?

Thanks in advance for your help everyone! I will keep you posted but if you have any more comments let me know...

The inlet needle seat is supposed to be soft, made from some kinda neoprene or something. Your cleaning solution musta hardened it up. Not good.
So... when ya put it back together, make sure the seat is installed with the groove side down. I always lube all the O rings and bowl seal with a dab of grease. I also lube the inlet seat edge with oil as it helps it to slide and seat properly.
Another thing ya might wanna check, is make sure the carb mtg. flange is not warped. I also use hi-tack spray on all my carb. mtg. gaskets.

[Luffydog]

just a thought any fuel restrictions? fuel,particals in tank,fuel line partly colapased.... if not i would say carb probs, jets and emulsion tube partly blocked not allowing enough fuel flow. possible low air flow. just gathering thoughts. sorry i just looked back at first post and saw you cleaned tank and all. somehow i guess i missed it or forgot lol.

[gus_mouse]

Okay, here is a quick update.

I reassembled the carb with new gaskets, seals, needle and seat, fuel line and spark plug. Right before I put it on I looked for wear spots in the linkage holes to make sure where I was matching the pictures I took before removing matched the wear slots. They seemed to so I was good to go. I got everything back together and turned the gas on (shut off on the bottom of the tank). Initially the gas started to flow out the choke area of the carb so I removed the bowl slightly to make sure the float was not stuck to the bowl (mine is old enough it has no divot on the bottom of the bowl) and that seemed to keep it under control.

I pulled a few times (2-3 not 50) and it wanted to start then the 3rd or 4th pull it kind of caughed and went right to idle! I set the idle mixture and the high fuel needle both under load and not. It seemed good so I started to move snow. After about a half hour, the load of snow began to bog it down (it pretty much went to idle but never stopped regardless how much snow I drove it into) and then as I backed up or moved around it went to high idle. Now that it has run a bit I need to start it, let it warm up again and adjust a second time...

The good news is that I stopped periodically to open the gate, stuff like that - and it restarted first pull just like it was waiting to run. I think I did this 3 times over an hour so it was warm and started with no choke - again it was encouragin.

I didn't check this morning but it seemed to still drip a tiny bit of gas after I put it away again last night - need to look into that for sure to make sure there is not a leak from the float heigh (I think that is what would cause it).

Once I get it running right I will post a picture of where i had to set the linkage (that seems hard for me to find on a 1969 ariens snow blower with a 4hp tecumseh that uses a throttle cable) for future reference to others. I am not sure if the spirng is over stretched either so will pay attention when I set the governor as well.

Thanks everyone for your help - the ultrasonic cleaning seemed to push it over the edge to start.

[Deere2me]

You need to get that leak/drip under control. Depending on how the carb sits, it could very well wash the cylinder and dilute the oil. A good idea is to install a cheap plastic 1/4 turn inline shut-off valve. Save s a lot of headaches.
Couple of tips ( no charge....this time! ): I always take the point of my knife ( and yes my Doc said I could carry one) and scribe a tick/mark on the throttle, choke and gov. levers to mark where the link rods go. Ends a lot of confusion.
Also, I usually will hook the fuel line up to the carb fitting last, while letting gas flow out to flush any trash. If possible, I usually leave the bowl off and let some gas trickle thru also.

[gus_mouse]

I agree deer2me!

Luckily, the carb sits about 2 inches below where the intake goes into the block (the intake drops down from top of block to center before carb attaches). This will avoid the wiping of the cylinder as the fuel just drips straight out away from the engine and then, well down (right now I have a container there so I will see if I catch any or none overnight).

I was hoping it would not continue to leak fuel with a new rebuild kit used (new needle and seat) - I did set the float when I reassembled the carb to 11/64.

I have contemplated another shutoff just to leave the old tank shutoff in place wide open (it has a new viton seal so does not leak just does not stop the flow) and putting in a cheap quarter turn shut off but have not done so yet - on the list it goes (the shutoff).

I did let fuel flow thru the line before I hooked up the line to the carb - no crap came out but it was a new line and I had removed the tank and cleaned the tank as well as sump filter inside the tank so nothing was expected to flow out. I trickled a ton out when I removed the bowl to let the float come unstuck (stuck because it has been dry for a while) or at least seal against the seat properly.

I didn't mark where the linkage goes but did take pictures. I got the snowblower used and am not positive it was ever in the right configuration (it ran - most of the time) so still want to do a start to finish on it again. I figure if I straighten out the linkages it might require a different hole location so will have to mess with it a bit.