Chrome Rings For Briggs

[KE4AVB]

Just my opinion...

If you want the rings to break in properly you do. 280 Grit. But I think your just trying bandaid this engine as it should be OS to .020 if you really want it to last. At .010 with a standard piston your going to start getting piston slap. You also need to remove the ridge at the top the cylinder or you will run risk of breaking rings and destroying the cylinder.

The problem with aluminum cylinders you probably going to be out of round too so the rings are not going to seal very well. The cylinder will also vary in size as you check it at the top, middle, and bottom of the stroke. One the ways you correct this out round and varying diameter is using a rigid cylinder hone.

[bgsengine]

The bore is smooth, I guess being aluminum I shouldn't hone it?

No - never hone aluminum bore, or even deglaze, unless you have the right stones for them. - If it is sleeved cast iron, sure by all means you may want to add back the cross hatch for better ring seating, but for an aluminum bore - no way - unless you have the correct stones for use on aluminum bores (Most standard auto stones are for cast / steel cylinders, and clog up in aluminum, digging gouges in your cylinder.) - Stones are different for aluminum bores - I used to (LONG ago) have a complete set of stones in varying grits for each (aluminum and Cast Iron) but nowadays I'm down to just 2 grits and only for cast iron / steel bores - never replaced the aluminum stones as they were too expensive and we rarely if ever did aluminum bores in any case.

[KE4AVB]

No - never hone aluminum bore, or even deglaze, unless you have the right stones for them.

Your right there and I might add you got to go slower than when working with steel as aluminum is more heat sensitive. This is where a low speed 1/2 drill is needed; you can't just use any old drill as most way too fast.

I used to (LONG ago) have a complete set of stones in varying grits for each (aluminum and Cast Iron) but nowadays I'm down to just 2 grits and only for cast iron / steel bores - never replaced the aluminum stones as they were too expensive and we rarely if ever did aluminum bores in any case.

I didn't find they were too expensive for my Lisle Hones. The hone carriers are fairly expensive at 150.00 each but the replacement stones and wipers were less 20.00 a set. These were purchase thru my Amazon account but locally the stone sets are about the same price; although, the carriers at least double in price.

The stones that I have purchased are per my emails with Lisle on which ones they recommended for the aluminum cylinder work on Briggs engines.

I got a 216000 series generator engine that is aluminum bore. I currently stripping it down for OS to .020. I would have like to seen it to be a steel sleeved engine but that not the case.

[madmantrapper]

I have taken a glaze breaker and put it in a paper lunch bag and soaked with Mitafin and used it on aluminum cylinders with some success. Does not restore to new by any means, but cleaned up OK. Go slow and make sure you do not rupture bag.

[Tim]

one other note after trying new rings chrome or not..do not use synthetic oil when trying to break them in. it may be a superior oil for a good running engine but is not good for seating new rings.

~Tim

[Mek-a-nik]

I wrapped this up today.
I appreciate all of the ideas presented.
This wasn't going to get any money dumped into it, I'm just helping someone get a little more use out of the tiller that it's mounted on. I only charged him for parts.
I can also learn something about the method I used to "fix" it. I.E., how long will it last, essentially.
The ring gap was waaaay worse that the piston-to-bore, so I ordered .020" over rings and filed them to fit. I didn't touch the cylinder, other than to remove the top ridge.
I also lapped the valves to fix the leaking (carboned) exhaust valve.
New head, valve cover and side cover gaskets, and a new PTO seal.
New spark plug.
Started on the first pull. I ran it for about 1 1/2 hours and changed the oil. It ran in an uninhabited closed shop, not much blue smoke after the test.
Compression is up from 65# to 77#, both measured with the engine warm.
Tilled our garden, ran well.
Time will tell...

[creia]

Mek-a-nik,
Thanks for the update and epilogue- it is ALWAYS appreciated and educational. (I wish everyone would do it!)
Michael

[okie]

Mek-a-nik,
Thanks for the update and epilogue- it is ALWAYS appreciated and educational. (I wish everyone would do it!)
Michael

Times 2

Travis

[Buckshot 1]

This is a little late, but for future use. B&S chrome rings number 299742 for 3 thru 5 hp. Napa used to have them but can not remmeber the pn.

[creia]

:) This is a little late, but for future use. B&S chrome rings number 299742 for 3 thru 5 hp. Napa used to have them but can not remmeber the pn.

Don,
The Briggs # you provided is for the 5 HP only. The 3 Hp are smaller diameter and are part # 297201
Sidebar: Good to see you again on THIS forum!
Michael