Need information for old Homelite Chainsaw

by **pawandmaw** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 10:12 pm

Thank you Parkinlube for posting these manuals, I am ripping apart a homelite 330 to replace the carb boot and wanted the manual.
THANKS ALOT, MUCH APPRECIATED !!!!
Paw

by **Jeff** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 11:15 pm

Big thanks to everyone for the help locating an operating manual/ illustrated parts list and troubleshooting our Homelite chain saw. Here is a brief list of what I checked and replaced..

- Walbro carburetor disassembled, inspected, cleaned in ultrasonic, and reassembled with original gaskets/ diaphragms. Needles set to 1 1/8 out.

- Replaced the old air filter with a temporary Scotch brite pad. (We will be purchasing the correct filter)

- Ignition (solid state) checked with a small engine ignition tester.

- Existing fuel ( approx. 6-8 months old) dumped, tank cleaned, and new 40:1 mixture added

- Fuel line, fuel filter, oil line w/ oil screen, oil pressure line, and both duckbills checked for back pressure

- Muffler removed, inspected, and cleaned (spark arrestor screen too)

- Existing Champion DJ7Y spark plug replaced with identical Champion DJ7Y plug

- Sprocket drum and clutch removed, cleaned, and reinstalled (I made my own spanner wrench with bar stock and 2 bolts. It work quite nicely.

)

epilogue:

Cold starting was significantly easier (no surprise) and the overall output of smoke was reduced by 50-60%. After several minutes of operation (idling mostly) a noticeable amount of fluid would collect on the bottom of the plastic case. The muffler was removed and contained a good amount of fluid as well. The exhaust port and surrounding cooling fins were wet (see photos). At this time I replaced the original spark plug with an identical plug. I ran the saw for several minutes (idling mostly) and the amount of fluid collected in the muffler, fins, and case were reduced by at least 50%. The chain oil fluid was drained and the saw was ran for another several minutes mostly idling. I noticed only a slight amount of fluid on the case and fins however, this amount is substantially less than before the new plug and absence of chain oil. In my opinion the old fuel, spark plug, and chain oil system were the easily identifiable culprits of the excessive smoking and fluid leaking.

I did inspect the crankcase and cylinder exterior for any obvious sign of leaking. The oil pump did not look unusually wet but may leak when the system is under pressure?? :?:

Is some fluid expected to collect in the muffler? I checked availability of the orange duckbills part # 69451 and they are available. Mostly aftermarket but a few genuine are around. To my surprise NOS rings, pistons, and crankshaft assemblies are available mostly on Ebay.

by **Skywatcher** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 11:29 pm

Hi Creia

Guess Jeff posted while I was writing up my next post, however, I'll post it anyway. You never know, someone else might find the information useful.

I know these little puppies inside out and if your son wants to learn about them, I'm here to answer any questions he may have. It sounds like you're having a little trouble with chain oil getting into the engine. With the engine removed from the housings, sitting on the bench with the spark plug towards you, the oil pump is located just behind the carburetor. There are 3 hose fittings on the oil pump, the left most fitting should have a line going to the bar mount, this is the oil delivery line. The middle fitting is an elbow fitting and connects to the oil pickup line in the tank. The right most fitting is the tank pressurization line and connects to the line with the duckbill valve (the Oregon number for the duckbill valve is 07-004).

How the system works. The oil pump diaphragm is located behind the rectangular cover held on with 3 screws on the right side of the crankcase. The oil pump piston is attached to the diaphragm and is held into the pump by a small spring between the cover and diaphragm. The inside of the diaphragm is connected via a port to crankcase pressure/vacuum, crankcase pressure pushes against the diaphragm and moves the piston out. Once the transfer ports open and crankcase pressure is dumped into the cylinder, the spring pushes the piston back in pumping the chain oil. The crankcase only generates enough pressure to overcome the spring when the engine is at full throttle.

The tank pressurization port is also connected to the inside of the diaphragm so is common with the crankcase, this is why the engine will pull chain oil into the crankcase if the lines are crossed. The duckbill valve is a one way check valve letting crankcase pressure into the tank to help push oil into the pump. The duckbill valve is connected to the pressurization line with a short length of sintered bronze tube and there should be a 1/16" to 1/8" gap between the line and the duckbill valve. This allows air pressure in the tank to bleed back through to the crankcase once the saw has been shut off reducing oil leakage. Hope this points you in the right direction. All the best,

Sky

by **KE4AVB** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 8:09 am

Thanks both Jeff and Sky for the duck bill info. I appreciate it to find that there is alternative to the number I have here of the Homelite 98819. As all of you probably know manufactures change numbers and sometimes it not pickup by the cross references. The size specs seems to be right but I need order to know for sure. Last fall they had became unavailable. I will order some for stock as I seen several bad ones last year and had to come up with a makeshift fix. I haven't heard back from any of the customers so I don't if the makeshift is still working or not.

I ran the Oregon part provided through my vendor's website and came up with a couple extra manufactures that I add to the list. Rotary 7259 and Stens 610-345.

Skywatcher wrote:The duckbill valve is connected to the pressurization line with a short length of sintered bronze tube and there should be a 1/16" to 1/8" gap between the line and the duckbill valve. This allows air pressure in the tank to bleed back through to the crankcase once the saw has been shut off reducing oil leakage.

Sky, This is a little different system then the one on my Little Red that I have here. It has only one line to the oil tank here but I have seen this system too on some of the XL's Little Reds.

by **creia** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:04 am

Anybody know why Jeff's photos did not show up properly? He did them the same way as he always did on the "old" forum. Has something changed with the "new" forum? There are some good pics there that would be helpful for analytical purposes.
Michael (Jeff's dad)

by **bgsengine** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:08 am

Yeah - I know the 98819 is NLA, obsolete - I bought the last ones that Gardner had in stock, middle of February, and the rest of the ones I ordered were cancelled because part was NLA. *there's no aftermarket exactly like it*, that I have found. (read on)

Part of the problem is they have not been using these duckbllls in OPE for such a long time now, the demand for them is steadily dropping - so it may be well worth while to buy a couple to keep on hand for spares, if you plan to keep your machine for a while. (store them in a cool, dry place, they'll last longer)
There's a *similar* valve - Homelite part number 69451 which is exactly like the Oregon 07-004 - but they are a little smaller, and a different material, than the 98819, however they're about the same *size*, and I imagine can work, but, they'll likely not work *exactly* as OEM design and may or may not last as long.

by **bgsengine** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:09 am

creia wrote:Anybody know why Jeff's photos did not show up properly? He did them the same way as he always did on the "old" forum. Has something changed with the "new" forum? There are some good pics there that would be helpful for analytical purposes.
Michael (Jeff's dad)

Didn't wrap them in {img} tags. (Which, if they are more than 600px width, will fail to show either)

by **KE4AVB** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:27 am

Also haven't posted more than 3 times yet after which img displaying option becomes available.

by **ParkinLube** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 11:29 am

Looks like the duckbill valve (the larger one) can be had from Poulan as part number: 560955001 or 530026119. The other duckbill, Homelite 69451, is considerably smaller and will not work in the side of the fuel or oil tanks. The smaller one is for attaching to the end of the impulse line that goes into the oil tank or it is used inside of the fuel and oil caps. The two aren't interchangeable at all, but it appears as though they don't need to be as the Poulan number looks to be a valid part.

by **creia** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 11:44 am

ParkinLube wrote:Could it be this one: http://www.parkinlube.com/pdfs/Homelite%20XL%20XLAO%20IPL%20Rev%201%202%203%2024923.pdf It is the Xl series from 1980, 1982 and 1984. There are 3 IPLs in one PDF. Check it out, it may be the one you need.
As for the duckbill, if it has a pressurized oil tank (you'll see the impulse hose sticking into the top of the tank after you remove the cap) then the duckbill is probably missing (or it is a pile of goo in the bottom of the oil tank). Without the duckbill on a pressurized oil tank the engine pulses used to pressurize the tank will actually suck bar oil into the engine on the vacuum pulse and try to burn it. Bar oil isn't very combustible so it shows up in the exhaust. If you have an oil pump and not a pressurized tank, then like Kev suggested, the diaphragm is probably leaking causing the engine pulses to draw bar oil into the engine and try to burn it. as for the duckbills, they are readily available. The pump diaphragm may be a different matter, however (I may have one).

Double also: there is a 5th edition Homelite repair manual in there (Homelite repair manual 5th edition) that should have info on your saw. It is a large download, so be sure you have the time to download it. There is a lot of good info in there.

Thank you- I DID find the parts diagram applicable to our chainsaw in that series, however, cannot locate the HOmelite owners/repair manual for our saw you mentioned. By the way, thank you very much for "opening up your vault" of parts diagrams and manuals- this is priceless!!~
Regards,
Michael

Need information for old Homelite Chainsaw

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