Carb identification

[Cobrargc]

I've got an older Troybilt horse tiller with a Briggs & Stratton 8 hp 195437 0858 01 engine. The engine is hard to start when hot. I noticed a puddle of fuel on the floor under the carb when it's been shut off after running. I suspected the needle was leaking fuel or the float was filled with fuel and causing the engine to flood when hot. I ordered a carb kit based upon the engine number and Partstree's website. After I received the kit, I disassembled the carb and noticed that someone had put a standard type needle in the carb with a brass seat. The kit contains a brass seat and needle with rubber tip. I believe this is probably what it is supposed to have. I assume the carb leaked gas because the plain metal seat can't seal against brass. The depth of the new seat appears to be a little deeper than the seat in the carb casting. The main large gasket between the upper and lower halves of the carb is different than the one in the kit and the low speed needle appears a bit different as well. The new needle is too large to fit into the old brass seat. I'm guessing I would have to carefully drill out the brass seat to remove it?? I would hate to damage the carbs casting! Is the new seat pressed in until flush with the surface of the carb? The new needle clip used to suspend the needle on the float has an oddball bend in the area the floats brass tab contacts. If you were to look at the needle clip from the side, it has kind of an "M" shape to it. I'm used to seeing a clip that is flat like a tecumseh clip.m

I can not find any stamped or cast number on the carb to identify it. It looks like a large two piece flow jet carb. At this point I'm not sure what my options are. Any ideas?

[KE4AVB]

What was the part number of the Carburetor kit and what is the engine date code? Also is the carburetor a three bolt or a four version when it comes to putting the two halves together? There three different kits listed provide no one has swap carbs with four different nozzles.

As for the removal of the brass needle seat I use a bolt extractor that fits and gently remove it as I would an old broken bolt. The new one it is pressed in. You probably can come up something to do that. Here I use a c-clamp but sometimes you can't need angle you have to come another to get it in without damaging it or carburetor.

[KE4AVB]

I might add these flojets are prone to leaking around the nozzle too. Can link a Perr tip for that once we get you straight on the carburetor kit so don't throw away the old nozzle.

[Cobrargc]

The kit is 492024, the carb is a three bolt and the date code is 89042130. Thanks

[KE4AVB]

That would be your kit problem. The original kit for the 3 bolt 1989 model is 398235 which superseded to 394693. The 492024 is for the four bolt version.

Tips for seat removal & for fixing leaky nozzle.
http://www.perr.com/tip9.html

[Cobrargc]

Thanks, a new kit has been ordered and happens to be much cheaper than the other one.

[Deere2me]

This might help ya some: http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/#id_briggs

[Cobrargc]

Thanks

[DennyIN]

KE4AVB, thanks for the carb chart link, I've added it to my favorites.

[Cobrargc]

I got the new 394693 kit today. It has the 3 bolt gasket design mentioned earlier. However it came with a conventional rubber seat, a conventional metal needle and a second needle with a rubber tip. The carb doesn't accept a rubber seat as it has a brass pressed in seat. The new kit didn't come with a new brass seat. I thought I would try to reuse the existing brass seat and the new rubber tipped needle, but the new rubber tipped needle will not fit inside the old brass seat. I'm not sure what my options are at this point. I'm two kits in and not enough correct parts to rebuild this thing.

The bottom hole in the original brass seat appears to be in good shape. Is it possible to ream out the old brass seat enough to allow the new rubber tipped needle to move freely up and down? Or file the needle to fit within the seat? I assume the depth of the old seat will accommodate the new needle?

Really stupid question here...................the rubber seat will fit inside the brass seat. I've never seen a rubber seat pressed into brass. Surely this isn't the way it needs to be done? The plain conventional metal seat is a bit shorter than the rubber tipped one. Is this to make up for the the short depth in the seat if the rubber seat is put into the brass seat?