by bgsengine » Tue Apr 15, 2014 3:43 pm
First, drain oil and refill with fresh oil, make sure you don't have gas leaking.. Do that first of all - gas fumes in crankcase can explode.
Next, start doing some logical , step by step trouble shooting. Remove spark plugs and clip on a grounded spark tester to each wire for the duration of testing - first, it removes compression that has to be overcome by any cranking, and second, when it does crank you'll be able to see if there is a spark.
Trace the battery cable from battery to solenoid , use a test meter to check for full battery voltage (Test probes on BATTERY TERMINALS, check voltage, Ground the meter test probe to the BATTERY GROUND wire and check for 12V to the solenoid post. Then inspect the power feed off that post (or off the battery post, whichever feeds power to small fused wire that goes to switch) - check for Battery voltage on the switch side of fuse holder.
If you have 12V power all the way to the switch, then check the "S" terminal of the switch (which typically feeds power to the solenoid start circuit) and turn key to start position, if you have 12V there, your switch is good enough that it should crank. Seat switch *usually* is not involved in start circuit, but PTO and Brake switch are.
Note IF you have a "Module" (has a triangular reverse push button for reverse mowing operation) , But that is unlikely, as your Bronco is probably older - around 2005 or so, if the engine is original, then testing is a bit more involved that trying to trace power through switches - the module takes small voltage readings fed to it from the safety switches to turn on small relays that control the power flow to the starter solenoid. But that's a moot point as your machine probably does *NOT* have that system, and much simpler and direct power flow through switches.
Model number needed is under the seat - Not 37746 (Probably is 13AJ609G766 or similar)
How poor are they who have not patience. What wound did ever heal, but by degrees? - Iago (Othello Act II, Scene 3)