B&S help.

[Mek-a-nik]

Been good, Don. Thanks for asking.

Just so we're clear, when I ask if you can see if the ACR is working, I mean can you see the intake valve opening maybe .020" or so, just after it closes?
I don't have one here to look at, but I'm pretty sure it's on the intake valve on that engine. It's the valve closest to the sump, at any rate.
If it's not moving, the ACR mechanism on the cam is probably blown apart, leaving schrapnel inside.

I don't understand how a battery could read 13.5 v. Maybe someone else could chime in. If the ACR is working, maybe the battery has voltage, but not enough amperage?

[bgsengine]

I don't understand how a battery could read 13.5 v. Maybe someone else could chime in. If the ACR is working, maybe the battery has voltage, but not enough amperage?

2 reasons a rested 12 volt lead acid battery might read 13.5v - bad battery, or your meter is not accurate.

6 cells at 2.13 volts each = 12.8 volts on a fully charged battery. More than that and probably the reading is an excess surface charge of a sulfated battery, which should fail a carbon pile load test.. although those new fangled resistance testers they use nowadays for AUTOMOTIVE testing can and have given a false positive on the same battery.

I'd want to do a real world load test on the battery and measure the actual amps draw while cranking with the battery, while at the same time monitoring the voltage level of the battery.

[Buckshot 1]

Been good, Don. Thanks for asking.

Just so we're clear, when I ask if you can see if the ACR is working, I mean can you see the intake valve opening maybe .020" or so, just after it closes?
I don't have one here to look at, but I'm pretty sure it's on the intake valve on that engine. It's the valve closest to the sump, at any rate.
If it's not moving, the ACR mechanism on the cam is probably blown apart, leaving schrapnel inside.

I don't understand how a battery could read 13.5 v. Maybe someone else could chime in. If the ACR is working, maybe the battery has voltage, but not enough amperage?

You are Welcome. Pulled the engine and took off the sump. Cam timming 2 teeth off. ACR is free and working good. On the battery checked with 2 different meters and both show 13.5V after coming off the charger. Re-checked the next AM and had 12.7V.

[Mek-a-nik]

Sounds like you are all set.

[Buckshot 1]

Sounds like you are all set.

I am afraid not, not getting any fuel to the spark plug and when using a shot of ether to start, it is still back firing thru the carb when trying to start. I have the valves set a .003 IN and .005 EX, with the piston 1/4' down from TDC. I removed the bolt holding the flywheel on and the key looks good. I am going to pull the flywheel and see if maybe the key might be sheared a tad. Any ideas/suggestions will be appreicated.

[bgsengine]

Have a V-Twin in the shop right now that is waiting on a new head - was backfiring through intake , acted like it ran out of gas - #1 cylinder had a leakdown through the exhaust - turns out the seat is cracked in 2 places on exhaust valve. happens to be the same cylinder on which the fuel pump vacuum works off of...

Might be worth doing a leakdown test on your engine - also make sure that 1/4" down is AFTER TDC Compression - not BEFORE TDC

[Buckshot 1]

Have a V-Twin in the shop right now that is waiting on a new head - was backfiring through intake , acted like it ran out of gas - #1 cylinder had a leakdown through the exhaust - turns out the seat is cracked in 2 places on exhaust valve. happens to be the same cylinder on which the fuel pump vacuum works off of...

Might be worth doing a leakdown test on your engine - also make sure that 1/4" down is AFTER TDC Compression - not BEFORE TDC

My bad, Thank you for the correction, I was thinking ATDC and typed BTDC. Found the problem, flywheel key sheared. I do not how I missed it when I checked it yesterday. Not to get the flywheel off, I have the correct puller on it, but it will not move. I lefted the pressure on and soaked it PB and will leave it set overnight. If that does not work, may have to go to heat and the puller.

[KE4AVB]

When I am using harmonic balancer puller to remove flywheels I tighten the center with an impact (but not over doing it) then I smack the center bolt with a 2 lb brass hammer to jar the flywheel loose. Works most times as I haven't had I couldn't remove yet and I stress yet. I know my luck it will happen tomorrow.

[bobodu]

Quit wasting time Don and heat her up. Screwed around for two days with the flywheel on Tami's jetski because I ran outta oxygen and couldn't get to the welding shop before closing time. Brought a bottle home from work and had it off in less than a minute.

[Mek-a-nik]

Make sure you torque it to the right spec. If less, it'll shear. I think it's 100 ft lbs, but I would look it up.