B&S help.

[KE4AVB]

Make sure you torque it to the right spec. If less, it'll shear. I think it's 100 ft lbs, but I would look it up.

It was changed recently by Briggs from 100 ft lbs.

Increase torque to 110 ft lbs and use steel key PN 796335.

Briggs APSI 82 dated Feb 2012.

[Mek-a-nik]

Them injuneers is smarter than the average mech. Thanks for the update, KEV!

[Buckshot 1]

When I am using harmonic balancer puller to remove flywheels I tighten the center with an impact (but not over doing it) then I smack the center bolt with a 2 lb brass hammer to jar the flywheel loose. Works most times as I haven't had I couldn't remove yet and I stress yet. I know my luck it will happen tomorrow.

This engine has a bolt holding the flywheel on. On engines with a nut, I remove them the same as you.

[Buckshot 1]

Quit wasting time Don and heat her up. Screwed around for two days with the flywheel on Tami's jetski because I ran outta oxygen and couldn't get to the welding shop before closing time. Brought a bottle home from work and had it off in less than a minute.

Bob, funny that you mention being out of Oxygen. Same here, to late to go to Welder Services as they were closed, but I am on my way this AM to get a new bottle. I am kinda of leary on using heat as it might damage the stator.

[Buckshot 1]

Make sure you torque it to the right spec. If less, it'll shear. I think it's 100 ft lbs, but I would look it up.

It was changed recently by Briggs from 100 ft lbs.

Increase torque to 110 ft lbs and use steel key PN 796335.

Briggs APSI 82 dated Feb 2012.

110 and a steel key it will be. Mek-a-nik, I will have to think about the injuneers statement.

[KE4AVB]

When I am using harmonic balancer puller to remove flywheels I tighten the center with an impact (but not over doing it) then I smack the center bolt with a 2 lb brass hammer to jar the flywheel loose. Works most times as I haven't had I couldn't remove yet and I stress yet. I know my luck it will happen tomorrow.

This engine has a bolt holding the flywheel on. On engines with a nut, I remove them the same as you.

Hmmm. My puller has adapters that let it go into those flywheel blind center holes. I have even made a few once time use adapters on some projects.

You also could get a bolt that threads all the way down with a short clearing section above the flywheel and use it as if crankshaft had an extension on it. I suggesting using the longer bolt as you would run less of chance of damaging threads in the crankshaft.

An old saying I haven't heard in awhile is "There is more than one way to skin a cat."

[Buckshot 1]

When I am using harmonic balancer puller to remove flywheels I tighten the center with an impact (but not over doing it) then I smack the center bolt with a 2 lb brass hammer to jar the flywheel loose. Works most times as I haven't had I couldn't remove yet and I stress yet. I know my luck it will happen tomorrow.

This engine has a bolt holding the flywheel on. On engines with a nut, I remove them the same as you.

Hmmm. My puller has adapters that let it go into those flywheel blind center holes. I have even made a few once time use adapters on some projects.

You also could get a bolt that threads all the way down with a short clearing section above the flywheel and use it as if crankshaft had an extension on it. I suggesting using the longer bolt as you would run less of chance of damaging threads in the crankshaft.

An old saying I haven't heard in awhile is "There is more than one way to skin a cat."

KE4AVB, using a bolt is a good idea. Did Briggs change the torque to 110 ft lbs and use a steel key instead of the alum one? I finally got the flywheel off, heat done the trick. Did not have a steel key, so I used a alum one. As soon as the engine came up one compression to start, it back fired and sheared the alum key. I wll get a steel key tomorrow. An go at it again.

[KE4AVB]

Did Briggs change the torque to 110 ft lbs and use a steel key instead of the alum one?

Yes as I am assuming your engine is a vertical; 31C700231-E1. I didn't see any 31C700 just 31C707 and 31C777's

Here is a copy of Briggs APSI 82.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-g4TpKUJnh7NlpvWDlhWFBxXzQ/edit?usp=sharing

[Buckshot 1]

Did Briggs change the torque to 110 ft lbs and use a steel key instead of the alum one?

Yes as I am assuming your engine is a vertical; 31C700231-E1. I didn't see any 31C700 just 31C707 and 31C777's

Here is a copy of Briggs APSI 82.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-g4TpKUJnh7NlpvWDlhWFBxXzQ/edit?usp=sharing

Thank you for the APSI. The engine I am working on is , 31C707-0230-E1.

[Deere2me]

KE4AVB, using a bolt is a good idea. Did Briggs change the torque to 110 ft lbs and use a steel key instead of the alum one? I finally got the flywheel off, heat done the trick. Did not have a steel key, so I used a alum one. As soon as the engine came up one compression to start, it back fired and sheared the alum key. I wll get a steel key tomorrow. An go at it again.

You got somthin wrong goin on there, bud. You need to take a close look at the valves, mayhaps sticking , or mayhaps the crank gear that drives the cam is cracked/split or moved. Could also be a damaged keyway in the crank or flywheel. Somethin ain't right!